I’m Andy Sjostrom and my company is The Good Handyman and I am here to take care of some projects around the house to get this house ready for sale. In this case, the customer has chosen a nice, soft chocolate milk color that’s going to work really well in here. They got a good choice in sheen too, which is the eggshell color, and that’s going to stand up well to the abuse of bathrooms. You can wipe it down, you can rub it down with a rag, you can hit it with mild solvents and it doesn’t take any damage. Use your paintbrush to get things back in the can. Throughout this process, you want to make sure that you’re taking care to keep things clean. I can’t tell you how quickly a painting job can get crazy based on how much mess you’re creating. So clean up as you go. And always, always, always, always, keep the can shut when you’re not using it. Somebody’s gonna kick it over, and you’re gonna have a gallon of paint spilled all over your hardwood floor before you know it. So first step is you’re going to want to make sure and cut in, which means that you’re going to use a brush… …to cut against all the surfaces where a roller is not going to get in tight enough. And you don’t wanna put in a ton of, a ton of paint cause the concern is that… …even though you’ve taped off really well, that sometimes that paint will bleed in behind. So the best way to do it is get some paint on your brush, load it up like this, and use the back side… …of the tray to give you a working surface against that and that loads the brush up evenly. You don’t want all your paint at the front edge of the brush, you don’t want it all at the back edge… …a nice, even, smooth finish is achieved by having a full, nice, uniform brush. And you never want to work directly against the tape… …you wanna come in up high and work your way down, like this. And the rationale there is that you don’t want to overload down low. You can always bring it away. The other thing too is, don’t start way in the corner, cause then you’re gonna be digging paint out, and that’s really difficult to do. It’s nice to have a nice angled brush; gives you a chance to get into corners in a way that flat edge brushes don’t. And this is the beauty of using tape is that what you’ve done is you’ve given yourself… …a surface to paint up against without having to constantly worry about… …getting paint onto a finish or a surface that you’re gonna have to clean up. Another thing you’re gonna wanna do when you’re cutting in, is you’re gonna wanna make sure that you get a nice final even brush. This kind of back and forth is alright for laying it in… …but your final brush stroke should be one long, nice, even clean brush. And the other thing too is you don’t want to leave a rough edge up on top. Meaning, you don’t wanna have a heavy stroke up on top here… You wanna kind of clean it out, you wanna feather it out. Because as that dries, it’ll show. And if you have too much paint up top there, it’ll dry bulgy and it’ll dry… … no matter how many times you come back through, it’s not gonna disappear. By feathering it out, you’re cleaning it all up, and you’re leaving a nice finished surface… …that when you come back to roll over, it’ll look really nice. Best way to get started rolling is to ease your roller into the paint. Same way with the brush, you don’t want to overload it… …you wanna just work the paint into the roller. The idea being, again, a nice uniform loaded roller is gonna give you a nice finish coat. If you put it on too heavy in one location, and just dump it in there… …one edge of the roller, or one side of the roller, is just gonna be fully loaded… …and you’re gonna get it up on that wall, and it’s gonna leave lumps. You never wanna start down close to an edge, cause otherwise you’re gonna have to be digging that out. And you always want to work in Z-fashion. The idea being, you wanna cover your strokes. Work from the center and work your way out. Take the paint that you loaded right here in the center and just kind of start to draw it out. So as I come back through that center point, picking up more paint, and bringing it out to the edges. The other thing too about this first coat is it doesn’t have to be so heavy that it covers completely… …you’re coming back through with the second coast, especially with the dark over a light like this. You want it to be fully coated, the wall that is. So you see how when it’s un-uniformly loaded, it’ll fall back like that? It’s a good sign that it’s not fully coated. And you just want to work it against the mesh like that, until it’s fully loaded… …till it’s nice and uniform across its surface. And again, work it from the center, outwards. And the nice thing here, again, about cutting in is that you don’t have to drag your roller into the corners. The roller won’t do a great job of getting into the corners, a brush will. And you want to work pretty quickly too because… …as the paint starts to dry, if you drag your roller, back over a beginning to dry surface… …that roller will actually pick up that paint that’s beginning to dry, and start to peel it away. You know if you’re working over a surface that’s already starting to dry… …because the paint will actually start to pick up, you’ll see it on your roller again. You can see I also cut around the fixture here… …because, again, it’s easier to get in close with a brush. Let the roller do its work. Putting too much pressure on it squeezes paint to of the roller… …and makes for a lumpy surface. So this first coat it all about nice and easy, nice and simple… …not too much paint, and working quickly. Get it as uniform as you can. And, again, you don’t want these little short strokes like this… …you want nice, long strokes. And your last roll should come down towards you… …and then as you do, you want to bring it away from the wall. You don’t want to leave a last spot like that. You want it to come off in a nice feathered fashion. You can’t go wrong with it, painting is easy. You can come back and do it again if it doesn’t go right for you. It’s fun, it’s a nice, easy, thing you can do and it makes a big impact.