Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.7: Darth Vader

Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.7: Darth Vader

Hello, and welcome to Episode 7
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint Darth Vader from Fantasy Flight’s Imperial Assault. Vader present two main challenges: How to paint a good black
and how to paint a lightsaber. This video aims to present just
one way of achieving these things, that is both reasonably simple and effective. However, it’s fair to accept that we’ll be investing
a little more time when painting Vader than we have for the regular troops. Here are the main steps: We’ll begin by priming Darth Vader
with a black spray-on primer. We’ll carefully highlight the armour
using a blue grey tone. We’ll also apply a dark wash to the leather sections and paint the additional chest details. Next, we’ll paint the lightsaber
using a buildup of layers from red to silver, which we will follow with some
red lighting effects for the armour, achieved quite simply using a thinned red glaze. Our finishing touches will include
some retouching, selective glazing, and we’ll be applying some matte and gloss varnish before having a look at some optional basing ideas. Let’s begin. Before priming the miniature, we ought to check
to see if the lightsaber is in fact straight. If it isn’t, we can quite easily
correct this by applying some heat to soften the plastic,
allowing us to straighten it out. This can be done with hot water,
but I’ve chosen to use a hairdryer. A quick blast of just a few seconds
should be enough to make the plastic pliable. We then gently correct the lightsaber
and hold it in place until it dries [cools]. After gently shaving off any visible mould lines, we’re ready to spray the miniature with the black primer. And now we’re ready to begin painting. Although Vader is dressed completely in black, the texture and reflectivity of his outfit
does vary considerably which we want to try to capture in our painting. We’re going to paint the outfit in sections,
beginning with the leather part. Our plan is to apply a dark grey base tone,
with a few highlights, followed by a black wash to shade the recesses
and darken the area back down. we’re going to apply a base tone using a mix of
around three part black with two parts Russ Grey. We want to keep the paint fairly thin
so as to preserve the details. A couple of thin layers may be needed. We’re then going to highlight this area by simply adding two additional parts
of Russ Grey into our mix. We should aim to give the strongest
highlights to the knuckles and fingers, and perhaps the edge of the gloves,
the elbow, and knee area. We can highlight up in a couple more stages
by adding more of the Russ Grey into the mix. You could even have a go at articulating some
of the more prominent raised stripes on the legs. We carry on lightening our highlights until we end up
with a final small hit of pure Russ Grey, but this should only be used in tiny amounts
for the most prominent highlights. Once dry, we’re going to apply
a black wash to the entire area to darken the recesses and soften the overall look. We might reapply a final highlight to the hands
to bring back a little contrast. Next, we’re going to highlight
the cloak, helmet, and boots. To achieve a smooth transition from the existing black, we’re going to use a dark mix of around
two parts black to just one part Russ Grey. With this mix, we now apply our first highlight, which will just barely be visible. To help decide where to place our highlights, we might want to take a couple of photos with a roughly overhead light source
to use as reference. Bear in mind, that we will be adding
some additional lighting effects to simulate the glow of the lightsaber – later on, which might look something like this. As we’ve thinned the paint, we can add a second layer
to subtly strengthen the highlight. Once we’re done, we now add a couple more
small portions of the Russ Grey into the mix and begin adding the next layer of highlight. We carry on building up the highlights in this way using as many layers as we have the patience to apply. Here, I’m using a two to three part mix with two parts black and three parts Russ Grey. This is the brightest highlight
that I’m going to use for the back of the cloak as it’s the least reflective
and darkest part of the clothing. Due to the extra light being given off
by the lightsaber, however, I’m going to add a slightly lighter tone
to the front of the cloak, maxing out at a 1:3 ratio of black to grey. For the lighter highlights, we’re going
to concentrate exclusively on the helmet, which is much more reflective, allowing us to be more extreme
with how light we can go. I’m creating two large areas of highlights: one at the upper front area of the helmet and one at the rear. We continue adding Russ Grey into the mix, carefully building up the layers of highlight. This stage reminds us that miniature painting is a hobby that both demands and rewards patience. Here, I’ve built up to a pure Russ Grey highlight. A couple of bright highlights
should also be added to the eyes. These can go pretty much anywhere you like
as long as you try to keep both eyes even. We shouldn’t worry if we’re not completely
happy with some of the highlighting, as there will be time for some corrective
retouching and glazing, later on. I would now go even further,
either by adding some white to the Russ Grey, or, as I’m doing, switching to some Fenrisian Grey. We may add one or two even more
extreme highlights later on, but for now, let’s paint the chest armour. Although Vader’s chest armour
doesn’t actually have a metallic finish, it often catches so much light
that it gives the appearance of doing so. So, I’m going to mix in a little Ironbreaker
with my black and Russ Grey mix. We then highlight the armour just as we did the helmet but leaving the thin downward stripes
a lot darker than the rest. For the lighter tones, I’m adding
some additional Russ Grey with a small amount of the Ironbreaker. Gradually getting lighter towards the lower part
of the chest armour can look very effective. You can also give highlights to the edge
of the chest panel with this mix. We continue lightening the mix
to build up our highlights. Here we can see that
with the brightest highlight added, we’ve created a nice bit of contrast between the reflective chest armour
and the more matte leather beneath. With the highlighting done, we now
paint the silver cloak-chain and belt buckle. For this, we can simply use some pure Ironbreaker, which we’ll follow with a black wash later on. Although I’ve left the lightsaber handle until later, there’s no reason not to paint it now
using the same tone. Whilst that dries, we can go ahead
and paint the chest panel. The precise colours of the lights on the panel
do vary from film to film, so you could use either green or blue
for the light in the upper right of the panel. I’m using Caledor Sky. A single dab with your smallest brush, using only slightly thinned paint, is all we need. And we do the same for the red light beneath it. I’m then going to use some pure Fenrisian Grey for the additional lights that appear in two rows; one on the left and another along the bottom. We now give a straight Nuln Oil wash
to the chain and belt buckle, and lightsaber handle if you’ve painted it, to shade the gaps and dull the finish. We might also deepen the shadows slightly
in the chest armour, whilst we’re at it. With those details taken care of, we’re now ready to paint the lightsaber. The lightsaber presents
a somewhat impossible challenge as in the movies they have a bright inner glow
when viewed from any angle. The best we can do, is simulate
that effect from just one angle which should be a roughly 45 degree angle at the front. We begin by laying down a pure white undercoat to ensure we get to the brightest finish
when we begin painting the red. I’m using Ceramite White to save time
as it has a high pigmentation, but any white will do, provided you
end up with a clean solid finish. With this, and each subsequent layer we add, we’re always looking for a smooth, even finish, and we’ll mostly be dragging the brush
lengthways down the lightsaber. Now we add a strong red basecoat
to the entire lightsaber, using Mephiston Red. Two layers will probably be needed
to get nice, flat coverage. Next, we apply some Evil Sunz Scarlet. This can also cover the entire blade. Now, we use some Wild Rider Red but only to the upper front edge of the lightsaber. It’s important that we keep the paint fairly thin
to achieve a nice, smooth transition. When applied in thin layers like this,
you’ll find the paint dries pretty quickly, and we can go ahead and add multiple layers
without having to wait too long. Once the colour stops getting any brighter – which took me about four thin layers – we need to mix a brighter tone. To do that, we’re going to add some
Runefang Steel to the Wild Rider Red. Once it’s applied, we can see that the metallic element begins to create the shimmering
inner glow effect that we’re after. Two thin layers should be applied. Then, we add some additional Runefang Steel
and repeat the process. We keep adding Runefang Steel in this way until we end up with a final thin slither
of pure Runefang Steel. I ended up adding around four
brushfuls of the Runefang Steel before ending up with my final, pure strip of silver. If your inner glow effect ends up a little too thick, or your layers aren’t as smooth as you’d like, you could brush on a little red glaze
to darken the edges and smooth things over. once we’re happy with the look of the lightsaber, we can now add a subtle red light effect
to the parts of the figure that are closest to create the illusion that it’s
actually giving off some red light. For that, we’re going to use a simple red glaze, but because I want the effect to be quite subtle, I’m going to thin the glaze using a roughly 2:1 mix with two parts Lahmian Medium
and one part Bloodletter. You could use water to do this if you like, although the results may be a little patchy. Or just apply the glaze neat, provided
you don’t mind quite a strong red effect. With our thinned glaze, we now begin giving a gentle
red light effect to most of the left side of the miniature. We’re aiming to provide a thin layer of glaze and trying to avoid letting it pool in the recesses. Once the first layer is dry,
we can add a second, and a third, building up the concentration
the closer we get to the lightsaber. For the areas that are closest,
which means the front of the cloak, we can build up to a stronger shade
using as many layers as we want, to produce the desired level of red. I’ve tried not to go too far, however, so as
not to allow the cloak to become too bright, and found that four layers
gave me a tone that I was happy with. This is a beautifully simple but effective step that really helps to sell the illusion
that the lightsaber is emitting light, but also gives us a way of introducing
additional colour to the miniature, helping to add interest and character. We’re now ready for some finishing touches. Before we give Vader a protective spray of varnish, we might like to address any areas
that may need retouching. I’m not too happy with the highlights
of my Vader’s eyes, for example, so we’ll be repainting them to achieve a more even look. Additionally, you could use a thin black glaze of around three parts medium to one part black paint, to smooth or tone down any highlights
you might not be happy with. To add a final boost to the contrast, I might add a couple of very small, pure white highlights for the brightest parts of the helmet reflections,
the eyes, and one or two other places. I’ll be replacing the entire base for my Darth Vader
with a more scenic alternative. If you’d rather leave the base as it is,
then this would be the time to paint it. Once we’re happy, we give
the miniature a coat of matte varnish followed with some gloss varnish
for the helmet, chest armour, and boots, and perhaps the lightsaber as well. I’m now going to remove Vader from his existing base. Some figures can quite easily be sliced off their stands. With Vader, it might be safer to firstly cut away
most of the base with some cutters. We can then more easily cut away
the remaining bit of stand from beneath his feet. We may need to gently slice or file
the bottom of the feet to ensure they’re as flat as possible. Now, let’s prepare the new base. I’ll be using these 25 mm resin basis made by a Polish company called Micro Art Studio. I’m going to paint the base
before rebasing the miniature. We’ll begin by giving it a black spray. We then try to figure out on various bases
to see which we like the look of. We’ll then apply a fairly heavy drybrush
using Mechanicus Standard Grey. We’ll follow that with a lighter drybrush
of a 50/50 mix of Ironbreaker and Russ Grey. A little Nuln Oil could be used
to create a subtle shadow effect, focusing on the centre of the stand. We’ll follow that with a lighter
drybrush of pure Ironbreaker. And now, we can paint the edge of the base. Finally, we’ll use some of our thinned red glaze
to add some lightsaber glow to the ground, focusing more heavily on the area
that will be closest to the blade. We add three or four layers
to build up to the desired tone. We can now finish the base
with a matte spray for protection before using a dab of super glue to fix him in place. This gives us a reasonably strong bond, but the miniature will inevitably now be more fragile, which is something worth bearing in mind when deciding whether or not
to rebase the miniature in this way. Our Darth Vader is now complete. Thank you so much for watching and especially if you have liked the video
or subscribed to the channel. Stay tuned as we’ll soon be
turning our attention to the Heroes as well as the Mercenary faction, not to mention the latest wave of Allies and Villains. Happy painting!


  • TK2822 says:

    Love your work!  Thanks for sharing 🙂

  • MasterModeler says:

    Can't wait for the next episode! These have helped me so much, thank you for producing them. My figures look great and I have never painted miniatures before. Thanks again!

  • ryan hutchinson says:

    Love these videos, they are so helpful. When will you post the videos of painting the heroes ?can't wait !

  • Benjamin Beller says:

    More videos please? I really like them. I know it takes a while to make them, but I really like watching you paint!

  • JP Haynie says:

    Love the videos…definitely planning on giving it a try!  do you have a timetable for the hero instructions or the expansions?  just trying to get a shopping list together…

  • mike schmitzer says:

    Really impressive Sorastro and a very well done "how to". My question: You only use matt varnish to finish your minis. Do you think they are well protected for playing? I use quickshade at the moment just to add a protective layer but on many minis i dont like the shading of quickshade. I tend to not using quickshade anymore. Have you any signs of wear after playing with your minis?

  • Frederik Theron says:

    this is high quality painting, video editing and you have an nice voice too! Love your vids! Desperatly awaiting the upcoming tutorials. Already messed up a trandoshan =( HEEELP!

  • Michael Phillips says:

    Awesome work. My fiancee is a amazingly gifted artist and I am buying into SW: Imperial assault to have a shared hobby with her (me = star wars, her = artistry 🙂
    my question is, I am looking to buy everything I need from a paints, brush, varnish, primer etc and wanted to know if you had a comprehensive list of what I will need for these figures or where I can look? Thanks

  • Adrian Firth says:

    Where did you get the base? Is it 25mm?

  • Jimpiedepimpie says:

    Do you happen to have a list of paints you've used / are gonna use for all the figures? (Including the rebel ones) I'm gonna pick up my core set soon and I'd rather pick up all the paints I need in one go. Thanks!

  • Nor rak says:

    Have you done any video's on the rebel heroes ?   Would love to see  some of those done

  • MasterModeler says:

    Episode 8! Episode 8! We want Episode 8! ;)….

  • Oz DeaDMeaT says:

    your amazing at painting. Nice Guide, wish I could do that kind of thing.

  • FRSpain says:

    Awesome guide. Your high quality painting and the perfectionism in details and the video production are the best. This is the third time I see all your videos. When is the next? Are you going to paint the Alliance's figures? || Regards from Spain.

  • Travis Cooper says:

    These are awesome. Wondering if you're planning on doing videos for the rebel/scum figures and/or stuff from the expansions.

  • Crucium Giger says:

    Excellent guide containing quite a few useful techniques.

  • Michael Miller says:

    Sorastro, You my friend ROCK!!!!  I will be following all of your guides to "pimp out" the game I have been waiting for since 2nd grade.  I look forward to more instruction from the man I deem, "The Painting Jedi Master!!!"  (Luke, Han, Chewie, and…. Boba Fett!!! Check out Fantasy Flight to preorder!!!)

  • Michael Miller says:

    "Fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to… suffering" -Yoda.  I WILL NOT FEAR!!!  I REALLY look forward to each instructional installment, and am patiently waiting for each work of art.  I have total confidence in your abilities and I wish you well in all of your endeavors.
         I was wondering if it would be more beneficial to " Rebase" a miniature (ref. Vader) before painting?  Possibly reinforcing the structural integrity with very small holes drilled into both the feet and base respectively, then inserting a paper clip (trimmed to appropriate height of course) into each hole, and then super glued together.  I think this may provide a more durable model, and evokes the old stand-up method applied by Kenner in all of their play sets from days of old.  I know, sounds like a lot of extra steps, but would it be worth it in the long run? What do you think?
    Thanks again Master Sorastro, May The Force Be With You.

  • Tyler Buehler says:

    these videos are perfect for me.

  • Marcio Kenji says:


  • ClassGeekBlog says:

    Thank you so much for these videos. I picked up the game recently, and your videos have inspired me to start painting. Without going into all of the different shades of colors that you use, is there a recommended "set" of paints and brushes that you recommend purchasing to start out?

  • PanzerRanger says:

    Thanks!!! keep it up. Im looking forward to the others

  • Alastair Jack says:

    How come you didn't do your basecoat dark gray, then use a black wash all over it, like your other models?

    Just curious! Thanks so much for doing these videos, they inspire me a lot!

  • Hands O Blue says:

    I will attempt to replicate this for a friends set. I've got over a decade of experience and everything you did makes sense but that means nothing until I take the brush and try it 🙂

  • Kim Lyngby Jørgensen says:

    Liked and subbed 🙂

  • matthewjago says:

    Great video!  Just bought the game; your videos will be invaluable when I start painting these guys!

  • B Palmer says:

    Thanks so much!

  • Taraka1 says:

    I plan to get Imperial assault very soon, and I'll without a doubt paint my figurines. (looking forward to your guide on the heroes) But something I wanna try with my Vader, I love your idea on the lightsaber but what I think I'd like to try is painting the saber blade white, and use bright red for the glow, but on the areas of Vader closest to the blade. This way it makes the saber seem very bright and you see the white glow of the beam no matter what angle, and the paint gives the illusion of light at you've done before. (It's probably a personal preference but I think Lightsabers should be bright.)

  • Taraka1 says:

    Also, do you do Narration professionally? I feel like I've heard your voice before on another video.

  • Timothy Meyer says:

    Great job as always!  Quick question.  I'm wondering if I should paint on a black base on the cloak/boots/helmet after priming but before highlighting.  I primed it black with P3 primer, but it seems to be a fairly dull black.

  • HenrikH321 says:

    This is just incredible! I just finished painting the Royal Guards, and I am now ready to face Vader – the ultimate challenge. Until now at least 🙂 As if the Royal Guards wasn't hard enough to paint.

  • John Nagel says:

    This has been a fantastic series to watch. Really made me want to start painting. Starting on Vader.  Did something a little crazy with Lightsaber.  Replaced plastic
    with a 1.6mm ( 1/16" ) drill bit end ground down for a nice dull reflection.  Hopefully will turnout as great as yours.

  • nobleclonetrooper says:

    I would like to say that I've been watching your series for a while now, fallowing the steps for each miniature and You've been an enormous help! More help than any other walkthrough I've seen and you've aided me in creating some of my favorite miniatures.
    Cheers, mate!

  • Daniel Potter says:

    Easily the best Vader I've seen. This series is fantastic.

  • theReaper13 says:

    amazing work !

  • Atlas Films says:

    I wonder what would be the result of painting Vader in a dark/medium grey then going over him repeatedly with a black wash. Obviously the results wouldn't be as high quality as yours but could it still be an effective method?

  • Robert Price says:

    Your videos are extremely well made. Excellent quality.

  • John Fanjoy says:

    Usually I don't have the patience to get my minis looking "great," but that trick with the red glaze on the cape was super easy and really made my Vader pop. Thanks Sorastro!

  • Tim Emmerson says:

    "Ooo, look at me! My name is Sorastro and I'm an extremely talented artist and composer. I have a cool voice, nerves of steel (look ma, no shaky hands whilst painting these tiny, Tiny, TINY figures), and I provide free tutorials on how to paint miniatures." You make me SICK…and jealous, motivated, and appreciative of your efforts.

  • Tim Emmerson says:

    Who the hell is the bozo who disliked this video!?!

  • EclecticCamel says:

    Vader in Episode 7 confirmed.

  • Giant Dad says:

    I personally dislike the Pose of the miniature, if I'll buy Imperial Assault, I will convert Vader to look more static and calm

  • Marcus Bilky says:

    Is it worth picking is the Russ gray? Or would using straight mechanicus standard work for bass highlights, then mix in some white for a brighter highlight?

  • Sorastro's Painting says:

    Hi Marcus; Your settings prohibit me from replying to you directly so I'll do so here.. I do think the Russ Grey is worth having; the hint of blue it produces really helps make for a more interesting "black" 🙂

  • MrRrleonc689 says:

    Pinning, pinning, pinning!

  • Irrational Geographic says:

    Great job, black is a challenge and doing a miniature that's all black and making it look good with surface definitions is taking it to the next level. Certainly one of the better Vaders I have seen.

  • Jason Cruz says:

    Instead of super glue, could you have used liquid cement for plastic in order to have a stronger bond or does that base prohibit the use of the cement?

  • James Chernega says:

    You could always pin him onto the base.

  • Tom V says:

    I hope you're receiving checks for your kind promotion of Citadel products.

  • Cereth Painting says:

    Great tutorial on blacks. This is a very difficult concept for new painters. Hard to trust that black isn't actually BLACK. I love these videos. After I win the US lottery for 1.3 billion I will become a patron.

  • MrElliptific says:

    thanks so much for the tutorial, this is one of the best I have seen in a long time.

    As a remark, you might consider that the bond to the base with super glue is as "strong" as the paint it is glued to. One more robust alternative might be to pin the figure with a thin piece of wire to the base.

    Thank you so much again for the video, it is so much motivating to paint my own set.

  • MrElliptific says:

    oh, and by the way… the blood rage figures have been out for a few weeks… 😉

  • Good Game Painting Studio says:

    "Miniature's painting is a hobby that both demands and rewards patience"
    And by this sentence, Sir, you've earned my support !

    I hope we will see a new tuto soon 🙂
    take care

  • magnuspan says:

    You are the Bob Ross if miniature painting. Only with a better soundtrack. I enjoy your videos, thanks for making them.

  • Lucas Porter says:

    After straightening out the light saber have you had any problems with it bending back out of shape? I have considered replacing mine with an acrylic rod in hopes of avoiding the light saber bending back. Im just afraid that if it bends back that the paint will eventually chip off.

  • Tyler Raines says:

    Hello again, two more questions for you. How do you keep your brushes at such a sharp point? I can't quite get the hang of that yet. That and if I accidentally go over a recess with a highlight what's the best way to darken the recess? Amazing work as always, it's much appreciated what you do.

  • William Fore says:

    Wow….well done. Liked and subscribed

  • thedr00 says:

    Great video, 1 quick question: My paint always dries out on my palette, I noticed yours stayed wet / usable. Is that clever editing or do you use an extender of some kind?

  • manuel cabrera says:


  • Joshua Imobersteg says:

    Solid tutorial!

    For the darker, more 'matte' highlights to the cape and helmet, I went with varying mixtures of P3's Coal Black (gives a dark blue-black look). Final "dark" highlight was about 1 part black, 2 parts Coal Black, 1 to 2 parts Russ Grey.

    Got a wonderful blue black look for the first round of highlights.

    For the brighter highlights I transitioned to the Black / Russ Grey mixtures (helmet, front of cape, knees).

    Adding some flow enhancer or mixing medium for each layer helped blend the edges.

    Red glazes worked very well for the lighsaber glow and then finished off with a very light black gloss glaze. Even on the saber the thin black (5:1 or 6:1) glaze really separated the bright layer from the darker ones.

  • Darmok says:

    That is a great paint job. I learned a few things. I do think you over did the metal color in the saber and the saber glow (just my taste). I also hate varnishes, so for the reflective areas, the helmet especially, I would have glazed it in black after/near the end of the highlights.

  • Ollienorth05 says:

    This is one of my favorite videos. Not because I own a box of SW:IA and not even because I like Darth Vader. I like this video because it's an awesome tutorial on 2 very basics painting techniques every mini-painter should know ; #1 How to properly apply very dark tones to a figure without rendering it completely flat out black and # 2 How to create smooth lighting effects to a dark/black model. It's rather impressive to see how you manage to make the lightsaber "glow" on Vader's cape without overdoing it to the point where it would look exaggerated and unnatural. I'll add this video to my favorites and will certainly use it as a reference anytime I need some tips when painting very dark minis, whatever the model or game set might be.

  • Ray RPGer says:

    Thanks for the tips! I like the weathered look! I tend to mix paint a lot more and experiment with rust color, natural base from stuff I find outside etc. saves money! Citadel paint is expensive!

  • Felipe Oliveira says:

    You have a brazilian fan here man! Amazing job!

  • Dan Maxwell says:

    Here I thought I would just need red and black… rubbish

  • jérôme Rey says:

    I like very much your videos but I can't understand the name of the polish base you're using, could you please give me the name ? Best regards.

  • Scott Williams says:

    what size of the Micro Art Studio Tech Bases do you use? 25mm (as you have linked) seems as thought it's a bit small

  • Tony Bruno says:

    It's official: I'm a rank, arrogant amateur.

    Wow. Well done!

  • Tanya Beeson says:

    after literally 6 months of my micro-arts bases being stuck in polish customs (for some reason) I have them and i am now re-watching the 'tute' on how to do them, so cheers for rewatchability, and wish me luck on my new bases!

  • Matthew Wells says:

    awesome work. definitely makes me want to step up my game and work on highlighting.

  • MrForsaken5 says:

    I've been watching a bunch of your videos on how to paint my Imperial Assault figures and I can't tell you how great these are. Its reignited my passion for painting figures and I love the results from the early vids. Thank you.

  • Бонго69 says:

    it's real music men)

  • Gonçalo Cardoso says:

    damn dude ur a god of painting.. i wish i knew someone like u to help me painting .. even if i follow ur tutorial i doubt it would look anything like that.. 🙁 beside no money for the materials

  • Jabbs says:

    So I'll be getting round to painting Vader some time soon and in recent Star Wars media he tends to have something of a red tint in his visors. What would be the best way to try and replicate this?

  • TheTswiggs says:

    Do you have a way to deal with matte varnish making metallics really dull looking?

  • Francesco L. Bellman says:

    If only youtube existed when I was doing my Blood Angeles…now I am 44 with presbyopia. Congratulations for the great paint-jobs, talent, patience and video-making!!!

  • Chris D says:

    First and for most if you want the lightsaber to look like a legit lightsaber, you can cut the actual lightsaber off the mini and replace it with a "Necron color rod red", they look so much like a lightsaber really would. The best I found with a quick search was a set of 12 for like 5 bucks. What you did looks great but for that extra more realistic look I would recommend it. Beyond that great job, making black look shaded is hard as hell for anyone watching so know these tips are pretty much the only idea of how to do it.

  • Paul Todd says:

    I'd love to see you paint the Mystic Warrior Family set from Hasslefree Miniatures, which are their version of Jedi knights (and even include a Panda/Ewok type Jedi too).
    They're the same scale as the Star Wars figures, and my collection of them has joined forces a few times with my imperial Assault Jedi 🙂
    i absolutely LOVE the red reflection/highlight you do on the cloak in this figure.
    i tried using pastels, then inks to get it right on my first couple of goes.
    thankfully now i have got it down correct, thanks to this video.
    I even use the technique on other cloaked figures I have painted/am painting, with amazing results.
    Sorry if I seem to gush in my comments, it's just so wonderful to have the effect that seeing your tutorials has on me.
    I'm like a child again, being given his first box of 1/32 Airfix plastic soldiers, and a few tins of enamel paints 🙂
    Thanks again for all the inspiration.
    Paul 🙂

  • jakfuki says:

    I finally broke down and bought the big Imperial Assault set. I'm a teacher and I just started summer break, so I'll be busy for a while. Darth Vader and the Imperial officers will be the first ones I do from the set.

  • HarzerMichael says:

    Thanks a ton for the video. I finished Vader and am ridiculously happy with the result. The lightsaber's silver glow is brilliant, and Lahmium was something I never considered using previously – great to see its value.

  • Herpaderp Derp says:

    wow man that is so amazing love your work 🙂

  • 이승환 says:

    wow I love it!

  • Yan Hey says:

    Lovely work! Now I'm definitely sure black colors require quite some effort and patience. 🙂 I was really not sure how to approach this mini, so thank you very much for opening the path.
    I have 3 questions:
    – When rebasing the mini, would drilling the base & feet and putting in a metallic link strengthen it enough for tabletop handling? Just being curious there as I haven't used this technique before.
    – For the reflected light of the lightsaber, would it make sense to build the grey lightings (applied assuming overhead light) also as if the lightsaber was a light source, like a neon, before applying the red glows? Or would it make the light from the lightsaber too strong?
    – Were the mold lines on Vader easy to remove? I'm looking at the cloak and there will be some to remove there, including in "recesses", which I'm not exactly looking forward to…
    Thank you for your advice! I'll keep trying to achieve that state of relaxed concentration you mention accross your videos; music helps me a great deal towards this.

  • Sergio C says:

    Hello Sorastro. I’m working my way through the figures and getting ready to paint the imperial officers. Would you recommend using some of te techniques and colors used in this video if I wanted to paint the officer’s uniforms black? Any other suggestions you can offer for this? Thanks in advance and thank you for these videos.

  • Landon Galloway says:

    What can I use instead of Russ grey

  • Lau says:

    Why not use a glaze on the lightsaber?

  • khristien Pennanen says:

    I can't wait to use this for legion!!!!!

  • Paul Nugent says:

    I decided to experiment with my Vader. I primed Grey and used several layers of Nuln Oil to darken down the miniature to almost black. It’s not as good as yours of course, but it actually sort of worked.

  • Alex L says:

    Love this tutorial. Question: when you talk about mixing paints, like 3 parts black and two parts gray, how do you do that when your paint is in tubs and not in droppers or tubes?

  • Michael Dobrowolski says:

    Yeah I wish I could paint this well lol, simply amazing!

  • JuergenGDB says:

    bad ass

  • James Lewis says:

    You made this look so easy! Loved the video though! Amazing! I have been painting a lot of my mini's these days using a lot of the tips and tricks from your videos. I'd love to send you some pictures. How could I do that?

  • Pacroid says:

    How do you get your brushes so pointy?
    Mine start out that way, but after a few cleanings they just start to fan out.

  • VeggieGollu m says:

    I have asked you about painting which Miniaturen After the troopers… When I‘ve finished them, am I ready for Vader?

  • VeggieGollu m says:

    Could I use mech. grey or celestra grey instead of the Russ grey?

  • Captain Bi-rownlee says:

    How would one be able to make a homemade glaze? Or would it be better to just go buy one?

  • Joey Gomez says:

    I like the technique for the saber

  • Alex M says:

    Very nice Vader you made there! Thanks for that video!

  • Jonathan Goodman says:

    These videos have been key to my learning the basics of miniature painting and I'm loving the results. I hope you continue to paint through the entire IA line as I'm starting to buy my miniatures in order of how you painted them because I'm enjoying the process so much.

  • CanadianTurf Sandwich says:

    No need to reflect Vader's saber on its body : the lightsaber effect was added in post-production!! Check the original Trilogy.

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