Sorastro’s Zombicide: Black Plague Painting Guide Ep.1 – The Zombies

Sorastro’s Zombicide: Black Plague Painting Guide Ep.1 – The Zombies

Hello, and welcome to Episode 1 of Sorastro’s
Zombicide: Black Plague painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint
the three basic zombie types – the walkers, runners and fatties – from CoolMiniOrNot’s Zombicide: Black Plague. Painting a shambling hoard of zombies is
a great way to get started in miniature painting, as they’re fun, easy and forgiving miniatures to paint. Because we want a grim and grungy look, we can get away with using a single
dark shade for the entire miniature. We also only need a limited amount of highlighting. And, any mistakes we make can
simply be covered with blood. For this tutorial, I’m using mostly
a size 2 brush by Rosemary and Co., and a mixture of paints by Citadel,
Vallejo, and Army Painter. And you should of course use
any paint range and colours you like. Far from being a strict guide, the aim of this video
is simply to present a range of ideas and options, that painters of any level should be able to draw from, to get our Black Plague zombies painted up
and looking great on the table top. With that out of the way, let’s look at the main steps
we’ll be using to paint our zombies: We’re going to begin by spraying
the zombies with a primer. We’ll look at the time-saving benefits
of using coloured primers, but I’ll also be showing the benefits
of using just plain white. We’ll then apply neat, flat
base colours for the clothes, and – for zombies that haven’t been
primed with a colour primer – we’ll explore a range of effective skin tones. We’ll also look at a possible colour
scheme for the bases. We’ll then create a nice bit of depth in the shadows by shading the miniatures with
a single wash or a shader, and I’ll be comparing a range of products
that you could use to do this. We’ll then finish the zombies off
with some optional finishing touches, including some limited highlights
for the skin, glowing eyes, and of course, adding some blood. Let’s begin. Although the mould lines on the Zombicide
miniatures are pretty discrete, there may be one or two you might like to
scrape off with a file or the edge of a craft knife, such as we see here, running down
the side of this fatties arm. Next, we need to prepare the miniature
for painting by spraying on a primer. Most of the time we might use either black or white – depending on whether the overall look
of the miniature is going to be dark or light. However, there are some coloured primers
– like the ones I’m using by Army Painter – that also provide us with an effective
base skin tone for our zombies, which will save us having to paint those areas later on. I’m going use a combination of different primers
to show the different results that can be achieved, but you should of course use whichever
primer you like or have access to – or indeed, use an airbrush. I’m going to spray some of my zombies
with the Necrotic Flesh primer, which will result in a greenish skin colour. I’m going to spray others using Skeleton Bone,
which will produce a beige-coloured finish. And I’m going to spray the remaining zombies white, over which I’ll be painting my own
skin tones in the next stage – such as the pale blue example we can see here. When priming, you ideally want to be
in a well ventilated area, and rubber gloves and a breathing mask
would also be useful. Whatever primer you use,
it’s important to follow the instructions which will usually tell you to shake the can
for a good while before spraying, and what kind of distance you need to spray from. I’m applying light, even sprays from a couple of angles
to a whole batch of zombies at a time. Just remember, that it’s better to slightly
under-spray than to over-spray a miniature, as missing patches can always
be touched up with a brush later on, but spraying too much could destroy the details. Once dry, I like to check each one individually and give an additional blast to hit any
remaining areas that may have been missed. When you’re done, it’s a good idea to invert the can and spray until no more paint comes out,
to help prevent blockage. Now the zombies are primed,
we’re ready to begin painting. Any zombies not primed with a colour primer
will now need to have their skin painted, and you could really get creative
with your choice of tone. However, if you like the greenish
look of the Necrotic Flesh, then either Army Painter’s Plague Skin,
or Citadel’s Nurgling Green, will give a good match. For a beige look – similar to the Skeleton Bone primer – then something like Karak Stone,
or Ushabti Bone, would be fine. A whole range of other skin tones are also possible, and experimenting with different
colours can be a fun process. Just remember that pale colours will work best, and whatever colour you use, will turn out a fair bit
darker and more brown, once we’ve added some shade. Here for example, you can see the effect achieved
using Citadel’s Pallid Wytch Flesh as a base tone… and after the shade…and finishing touches. Light grey tones, such as Ulthuan grey,
can also give us a beautifully lifeless skin tone. Pale purples and blues can also work very well. Here I’ve used Vallejo’s Pale Blue, and this is the tone I favoured for the majority
of my non-colour-primed zombies. Before painting, it’s a good idea
to find a way to mount your miniature, such as with some white tack and a bottle cap, to avoid having to handle the miniature directly. Whatever colour you use, don’t forget to thin
the paint with a couple of drops of water so we don’t smother any details. Depending on the paint, you will most likely need to
apply two or three layers to achieve a strong, even tone. Even if you have colour-primed your zombies, you may still like to vary the skin tone of at least
some of them for the sake of a little variety. If you do choose a range of skin tones, it might be useful to mark the initials of the colours
used on the underside of each base, just in case you forget which is which
when it comes to adding the highlights. However you choose to paint the skin, once done,
you will now need to paint the clothes, again using whatever colours you like. The colours we might pick here
may depend on the kind of life we imagine our medieval zombies had
before being turned. We might pick drab, earthy colours
for an ex-peasant for example, sticking to pale beiges, white, and mid-tone browns – the colours of undyed cloth, linen, wool, and leather. A middle-class zombie might have been able
to afford to dye their clothes blue, green or even red. Purple however, is a colour we would expect
to be seen worn only by royalty or the pope, and I’ll be reserving the colour purple
just for the necromancer, which we’ll be covering in a future episode. We might want to add some simple bold patterns for zombies that may have been wearing colours
denoting allegiance to a certain house or faction. Or even paint on some striped patterns, as was popular in the late Middle Ages,
particularly for the leggings. We might also imagine what the court jester may
have been wearing the night he drew his last breath. Using bold primary colours like this
helps to add some vibrancy to a grey world and nicely reflects the pageantry of the age. It also throws into relief the grim horror of what has
befallen these innocent village and townsfolk. Although I’ve given a suggestion
of some of the main colours I’ve chosen, I would encourage you to have a go
at experimenting with colour schemes of your own, as it can be such a creative and rewarding process. However, a more concise record of
some of the schemes I came up with can be found in the appendix at the end of this video. Whatever colours you do choose,
it’s a good idea to compensate for the darkening effect of the shade
we’ll be adding in the next step by using generally mid to light coloured base tones. This means the shade will still be able
to darken the recesses down further, giving us a stronger sense of definition and contrast. Other general tips include painting
your zombies in batches and applying one particular colour to different
parts of a group of zombies to save time. I might, for example, use this blue
to paint the tunic of one zombie, and then the leggings of another, and so on. This will help to speed up the process whilst also
help to ensure that no two zombies will look alike. It’s also a good idea to paint the belts first, as it’s much easier to achieve a neat join
by painting the surrounding area of fabric, than it is to paint the thin bit of rope. I also like to place contrasting colours, or colours with
contrasting levels of brightness, next to one another. Or, if I do have adjacent areas of a similar darkness, I might add a contrasting trim to break the miniature up. Finally, for the fatties, it’s a good idea to paint
the tongue before the teeth with a light pink. Then, we can hit the teeth with some pure white. Painting on the base colours is by far the most
time consuming stage of the whole process, but painting in batches of around ten zombies
would be a good way to break the task up. What’s really needed though, is a little patience
and a simple enjoyment of the process. Before moving on, you now need
to make a decision about the base. The easiest thing to, do would be to paint them
a plain flat colour such as grey or beige. You might even want to use
a different colour for each zombie type, to make them easier to identify on the board. If this is the approach you choose,
you can do this in the finishing touches stage so that any splatter from the shade gets painted over. Alternatively, you could replace the base
entirely with a clear one, which looks fantastic, but does render
the miniature more fragile as a result. You can reference my previous zombie paintings
guides for more detail on how to do this. The approach I’ve chosen for my Black Plague
miniatures, is to paint on a textured effect, so that the zombies look more thematic
and also blend in a little better with the board. This looks more attractive than a plain base
but is not as fragile as a rebased miniature, and you could still use separate colours for
the rims of each zombie type, should you wish. Before painting the bases, I’m going to mount each
zombie onto a spare paint pot, using some white tack. This only takes a couple of minutes but will make the base-painting and shading step
so much easier – and cleaner. Here are the steps I’m using to paint my bases: I’m starting with a base colour of Rakarth Flesh, and I’m using a larger brush to speed things up. I’m then using some Stormvermin Fur to paint
on some cracks, to create a flagstone effect. This can include a mixture of regular
and irregular patterns, along with a few smaller cracks
within some of the individual flagstones. Once that’s done, I’m going to
pick out some of the flagstones using two different lighter tones
to create some variety; I’m starting with some thinned Screaming Skull and painting around three random
flagstones on each base. The finish doesn’t have to be especially flat or neat here, as the board itself has quite a painterly, illustrative style. Bare in mind, that the shade
we’ll be adding in the next step will both darken the base and mute the contrast. I’m then doing the same with some Pallid Wych Flesh, although you may find other colours
that work just as well. To finish the bases off,
I’m painting the rim with a dark brown, although, as mentioned, many painters like to use
a separate colour for each zombie type – for ease of identification. Once shaded, the finished result should give us a palette
that broadly matches the tones on the board, and – although it may add another hour
or two onto the painting time – really adds to the overall look of the models. Once the base colours are complete,
we’re ready to do some shading. Now we need to use a shade or wash
to darken the recesses of the miniature, which would often mean using a different
coloured wash for each colour on the miniature, and this is certainly an approach
you may wish to consider. A green wash, such as Army Painter’s
Plague Shader for example, would do a fine job of producing a vibrant green
skin tone when used over Necrotic Flesh. A blue shade, such as Drakenhof Nightshade
used over this Wolf Grey, gives a nice deep blue tone in the recesses. However, for a large group of unclean zombies,
we can happily save a lot of time by using a single, generic, dark brown
wash for the entire miniature. There are several products we could use to do this, and I’m going to try out a small
selection on some test zombies, so we can compare the results. On one zombie, I’m applying some of
Army Painter’s Deep Shader. As with most washes, we simply apply it
undiluted with a large brush, letting the wash settle into the recesses, before soaking up any excess. For the second zombie, I’m mixing equal quantities
of Citadel’s Aggrax Earthshade with some Nuln Oil, both of which now come in extra large sizes. Finally, I’m applying some of Army Painter’s
Strong Tone Quickshade to zombie number three. We apply this like a wash, but because it’s so thick, we will need to spend a little longer
soaking up the excess. And, because it dries to a high gloss, we also need to apply a matte varnish
to take the shine off. Looking at the results, along with
an unshaded zombie for comparison, we can see that both the Army Painter and Citadel
washes have significantly darkened the entire miniature, with the more expensive Citadel wash doing a pretty
fine job of deepening the tone in the recesses – which is particularly noticeable in the facial details. The Quickshade, however, produces
a more striking level of contrast, giving us deep, opaque levels of shade in the recesses, but allowing more of the original lighter base tone
to show through in the raised areas. It’s also remarkable just how smoothly the Quickshade
manages to affect these transitions of dark to light. This means, that a figure that’s been shaded with
Quickshade will require little or no highlighting. Using a more traditional wash is still an option
if you can’t get hold of the Quickshade however, although you may have do a little more work with your
highlights afterward to achieve a good level of contrast. Quickshade is therefore the product
I’ll be using for my zombies. And, although it is ostensibly the most expensive option, the cost per millilitre is actually less
than half that of the Citadel washes. And, it will also last for years
and easily cover several hundred miniatures. Before applying the Quickshade, it’s a good idea
to lay down some paper, for wiping the excess onto. You will will also need some mineral turpentine
– or white spirit as it’s called in the UK – to clean your brush with afterwards. After giving the can a good shake, I’m taking a fairly large old brush to begin
coating each zombie with the Quickshade. For the walkers and runners, around three large
brushfuls should easily cover the miniature – including the base. Just ensure that the entire surface is coated, as any gaps will look out of place
once the Quickshade has dried. I’ll then spend a minute or so
soaking up the excess Quickshade, repeatedly dabbing it away and wiping it on the paper. I will then re-check the figure a few minutes later to see if any more Quickshade has pooled
anywhere it isn’t wanted, including around the edge of the feet. We’re looking to remove shade from any places
where it may be smothering important details, but also from flat or raised parts of the form that we would usually expect to be an area of highlight. At this stage, you might be wondering if you
haven’t just ruined your lovingly-painted zombies, and it does take a small leap of faith
to trust that they will look amazing in the end. Once done, they will need to be left
for 24 hours to fully cure, during which time they will dry
to an extremely durable, high-gloss finish. This level of protection is the reason
I’ve also shaded the rim of the base. To remove the shine, I’m going to use Testor’s Dulcote, although there are several other brands
of matte or satin varnish that will also do the job. A couple of even coats from multiple angles
will remove that gloss varnish and allow us to see just how effective
the Quickshade has really been. At this point, you could consider
your zombies complete, as we have a durable, richly shaded,
and varied zombie horde that is perfectly good enough to hit the table. Let’s now look at some optional finishing
touches you might like to add, if you want to take your zombies that bit further. The first finishing touch I’m going to add,
is some delicate highlights for the skin – focusing mostly on the face area. To do this, I’m using a slightly lighter version
of the original base skin tone. So, for the zombies sprayed
with Necrotic Flesh for example, I’m going to take some Plague Skin
and lighten it by mixing in a little white. I’m thinning the paint slightly more
than I did when applying the base colours. I’m then using this to gently emphasise
the top of the nose, the cheekbones, and maybe the brow and tip of the chin. This just helps to boost the luminosity of the skin tone and makes the face – and eyes
in particular – more of a focal point. Because of the thinness of the paint, I can build
these highlights up in a couple of layers, gently increasing the intensity to my liking. I might also pick out one or two raised details
from elsewhere on the miniature. This is quite a subtle touch to add,
especially if you’ve used the Quickshade, as the miniature already has
quite a strong sense of contrast. But if you’ve used a traditional wash,
it may be a more necessary step, to give us the required sense of depth. Likewise, for the zombies with a pale blue skin, I’m once again mixing a little white into
the base tone, to produce the highlight. For the zombies sprayed with Skeleton Bone,
I’m using some Ushabti Bone. If you’ve used a very light colour – such as Pallid
Wych Flesh or Ulthuan Grey – for the skin, then a simple re-application of the base tone,
without any additional white, should be fine. If you haven’t used the Quickshade, you may also want to highlight some of the clothes
in the same way, using the original base colours. But I would avoid over highlighting these areas, as it’s the skin that we really want
to stand out the most. The second finishing touch I’ve chosen to add
is some glowing eyes. To do this, I’m simply creating a very pale
mix of the colour I want the eyes to be, such as this moot green and white mix, and using it to paint a small dot in each eye socket. It’s a good idea to have a dark brown
– such as Rhinox Hide – handy, to perform any retouching that may
be necessary when things go wrong. We could then apply a small amount
of a matching-coloured glaze, such as Waywatcher Green, which we can
use unthinned straight out of the bottle. This can cover the actual eye, along with
some some of the surrounding area, to heighten the glowing effect. Notice, that the colour can appear
slightly stronger once the glaze is dry. The same approach could be used for whatever
colour you like, such as blue for example. Here, I’m applying the light blue mix,… ..followed by the blue glaze. And for one final example,
I’m trying out some yellow eyes. With the highlights and eyes complete, I might provide one final protective
matte spray before adding some blood, which I’m applying last,
as I want it to retain a wet glossy look. For the blood, we could use something like
Citadel’s Blood For The Blood God, which should be used unthinned, and gives us
a bright scarlet hue and a glistening finish. However, I’ll be using the same recipe as used
in my previous zombie painting tutorials, which is some Tamiya Clear Red
mixed with a little dark brown and some black. By varying the amount of the brown and black,
we can produce a nice range of effects: From older, more dried looking blood stains to fresh glistening wounds and spatter. A few drops on the base can also look effective. Applying different amounts of blood to each zombie, gives us yet one more way
of introducing a nice bit of variety. And also, a good opportunity to cover up any
scrappy bits of painting we might not be happy with. With that done, our zombie horde is complete. Thank you for watching. Please feel free to like, comment, and subscribe. You can also connect with me on Facebook and Twitter to ask questions or share your own work. To support me in my efforts
to produce even more content, you can do so by clicking the Patreon link where you can also gain access
to additional behind the scenes content. My huge thanks go out to the growing
legion of current Patrons, who are so generously financing
all of the work that I do. Join me again soon, as we’ll be
returning to paint the Necromancer, Abomination, and heroes from Zombicide: Black Plague. Happy painting!


  • AranLass says:

    Do you sudjest to use the quickshade as soon as the miniature dries or it is okay to put the shade also after some days?

  • Christopher Baughman says:

    I didn't care about painting my ten million zombies. Now I do. I hate you.

  • ThePSaco says:

    Nice video man! Do you think it's possible for a begginer to get such results? I've many cmon games with minis that beg to be painted, but I'm not sure if I should start painting such nice minis instead of something cheaper to practice

  • Casey says:

    I've been using Ogryn Camo for the skin, and it looks pretty amazing!

  • GrumpyPiratenz says:

    Honestly, I found this youtube site from a stranger and amazing work mate. I love it

  • Jollene Warrington says:

    I've been painting for over 20 years but have to say you have shown me a way quicker way to paint and opened my eyes to some effective techniques. thanks ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Chango266 says:

    these are amazing

  • The One says:

    I have no idea why this was in my recommendations…but I'm so glad I clicked on it! You sir are…awesome!

  • karim4815162342 says:

    im not a miniature or painting minis fan but your video is awesome

  • Richard Masters says:

    I just wanted to say how amazed I am with your work, and that you've really encouraged me to give painting my Black Plague pieces a go. Thank you!

  • James Mcdonald says:

    this is amazing i definatly want to try it. could you give me a complete list of the paints and shades you used and where you get the masks please. thanks

  • Grumpy Geezer Gaming says:

    Awesome! Great tips and paintjobs

  • LovoAle says:

    can you please make a generic tutorial about painting and brush care?
    I have so many problem using my brush…your brush looks perfect! ALWAYS .-x

  • Littythefunbomb says:

    Hello Sorastro! Great video, I am about to divo into my first figure paintings of my own. As it is easier to order, I want to get colors from army painter only (except blood of the blood god, which I happen to have) and I absolutely love that pale blue skin tone on your zombies. Can you recommend a blue tone from Army Painter that comes close with use of strong tone Quickshade? Or will I need to mix with a bit of white?

    Thank you very much for that tutorial, I will use all your tips and steps to paint my minis and hope that I can get similar results, with the shader and the higlights!

  • FatYggdrasil says:

    I am planning on painting some kind of gutter/channel pattern on the runner bases to make them stand out more but i am not so sure if i can make this look good with just the flat (2D) color on the base
    maybe longer conerstones at the edges with a more regular pattern than the other stones make this stand out more but i am still cooking the idea inside my head

  • Daddy Hammer says:

    I keep coming back to this video for many reasons. So many great little tips and skills. And the results are tip top fella!

  • Nova Sakigake says:

    What an insanely good painting guide! So much thought and care on your color selections!

  • Cerberusarms says:

    Amazing tutorial, you're videos are so well done. I really enjoyed this, totally sold me on the game thanks!

  • Trevor Morton says:

    This is the best painting guide I've seen yet!! thanks!!

  • Slow Neutron says:

    OUT-FREAKING-STANDING!!! Will definitely try these color schemes.

  • jekster says:

    Such a well done video. Thanks for the awesome content and tips!

  • michaรซl Anselme says:

    Hello Sorastro!
    Nice job for this tuto, even after 1.5 year ๐Ÿ™‚
    I think my zombis are very dark, I use the same quickshade than you; and I've got the impression that your quickshade seems to be "clear", did you diluate it?
    Bye and thanks for your tutos, and nice music too ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Clown World says:

    phincing guide ?

  • Waywatcher says:

    yeah. A pleasure to watch.

  • HonestDoubter says:

    Your tutorials have allowed me to produce decent standards on my first go. I deeply appreciate all of your effort.

  • Xavier Shorten says:

    You are so great. You got me into painting miniatures. You make it look so…so…peaceful and fun.

  • Frosty Snowman says:

    Very well done Sir! Thank you for posting. My daughters and I painted our first Zombicide figures with advise from your tutorial. I am hoping to show some improvement with this set. Really the haters go by you as little more than background noise. Take care – from me and my 2 girls. ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ

  • Martin Herrmann says:

    Thanks for this great tutorial ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Glauco Ruzzetti says:

    ty for another great video man! Can I ask u very stupid question? where can I find that "white stuck" u keep using in your videos? ty a lot!!

  • MARK ATKINS RC says:

    excellent job done..thx mark..

  • Genesis Lopez says:

    Where did you get that cementary terrain? ๐Ÿ˜€

  • Pete Richard says:

    it cannot be stated enough how fantastic your painting tutorials are. i have learned so much from them, especially the Zombicide Black Plague playlist of Zombies, Abomination, Necromancer and Heroes since this is my next painting venture ever since i saw your channel. I really would love to see this extended to the Abomination pack and NPC Packs. I know that would not be an easy task but it would be great to see how you tackle them. I am looking forward to seeing your future videos, (whatever they are) as there is always something for me to learn and your music is great too. Loving your work.

  • Nathan Norton says:

    I have my first commission upcoming (big, big thanks to you for teaching me literally everything I know about painting), and it happens to be Zombicide. So I'll be using pretty much all your techniques in this video. To that end, I have purchased both Necrotic Flesh primer and some Quickshade. You mention needing mineral turpentine (white spirits) to clean the brush. I see many different options for this product, and am simply not sure what I should be aiming for…would it be possible for you to provide me some links to mineral turpentine you would recommend? Is there a difference between "Pure Gum Spirits of Turpentine" and your run of the mill paint thinner at the hardware store> Just looking for some guidance. Thanks!

  • marco zanni says:

    where does the beautiful gate used as a background in the intro
    come from?

  • Craig says:

    What is the graveyard scenery from on this series of videos? Its awesome

  • Bรฉtameche says:

    Hello Sorastro first i want to say thanks a lot for your videos very clear and very helpful, she's very clears and very well explain so thanks so much! but i've a question for you ๐Ÿ™‚
    My question is : what do you think about the glasses loupes for the sessions painting and do you use one of them?
    Thanx for advance for your answer and long life at your channel.

  • PlanetNemesi says:

    well done!

  • Andy Boe says:

    Awesome tutorial – thank you very much!

  • Del Bradley says:

    That was fantastic, I have learned a load, will no doubt watch this several times, will be a pleasure. Well done and many thanks for uploading this epic tutorial.

  • DannyUzo says:

    Master Painter!!! Unbelievable!!

  • Olivier D says:

    This video is pure gold ! Thanks for sharing your technique

  • WhyKillWill says:

    Great video. Any chance you can help me out a bit? I have followed your instructions closely and have run into a problem with the quickshade. I made sure to get the strong tone that you show in the video but it seems to be darker than yours. is there any way to lighten things up after the fact?

  • Anna Reed-Stiefel says:

    Thank you for providing such high-quality videos. I recently made a few mistakes painting the zombicide miniatures and want to start over. A friend suggested that some paint thinners could damage or even melt the plastic. Is it okay to use the white spirit to strip them down? Is there another way to start over?

  • Giorgio Verde says:

    Bellissimo lavoro tu devi essere un po' matto per fare questo!!!!! Complimenti lavoro eccezionale!!

  • Jonas Vanvolsem says:

    is it ok to use a black spray primer instead of the collore ones?

  • Richard Byrne says:

    You might just be the most effective mini painting instructor on YouTube. Really excellent craft. Please do more! Maybe branch out to GW, Mantic minis?

  • Tasos Margaris says:

    Amazing tutorial! Anyone know where to find this soundtrack?

  • curt nel says:

    man these videos are great

  • Alex L says:

    OMG you make painting to tiny tiny eyes look so easy! Any tips for a beginner that you've inspired to learn to paint minis? ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Tri Blankly says:

    Iv always wanted to get into Warhammer 40k, but have always been scared of building and painting the models and messing up since they were so expensive. But these videos have inspired me to get these box set board games so i can practice painting, and do a good job when i do get to warhammer. Thanks for the great and informative video!!!

  • -.--.- says:

    man, amazing results! Amazing video! The way you made the video, so much details, the comparisons between the different ways of shading! The sounds in the background! Perfect! Thanks a lot for this!

  • Jakub Kusik says:

    Noob question you don't do dry brush?

  • Sebastian Ugarte says:

    amazing job, really liked it

  • White Glint Gaming says:

    when I watch your videos more money leaves me wallet…how does this happen?!?! Are you a wizard?!?!

  • Chris DeMint says:

    I know this is late so don't know if it will get answered (fingers crossed). I am getting ready to paint Green Horde and plan on using a lot of what you did here for my zombies. The problem is the Quickshade. Its quite expensive and as I mostly paint for display and fun this would probably be the only project I use it on. So my question is, do you think the Army Painter Ink Wash might be an ok alternative?

    My kids and I play GH and it would be fun to have an army of painted zombies and like I said I don't ever batch paint armies so just looking for a cheaper alternative.

  • Julio Zenteno says:

    hello Sorastro! gotta say your painting is AMAAAAZING!!! im really really surpriced about the quality. im a fairly new and color blind painter, so im really really thankfull on the details of your explainations and color usage. really cool!

    i have a question though, if i dont own the Quick Shade, what would be a good option for the base shading?

    Thanks! and keep up your channel is amazing totally following you!

  • Alexander Schneider says:

    Thanks for the amazing series. I was rather into spaceships but now I am getting my hands on some older Mutant Chronicles metallic minis, so this actually came in very handy. ๐Ÿ˜€ Btw – may I ask how you keep your brushes so fine and thin at the end? A video about the technique of keeping / cleaning / storing brushes would be brilliant!

  • Gaustadt Panzer says:

    Wow! Awesome job! I never even heard of Zombiecide! Something I MUST get for sure!

  • Fred Mulvaney says:

    Do you scrap all the mould lines or leave them? I am having a tough time because they are so small and in textured parts of the cloth.

  • 26Everlife says:

    Hi Sorastro. 2 years and half and your tutorial is still helping a lot of people ! ๐Ÿ˜ƒ From France: thank you very much for this splendid video.
    Huge respect for answering each of any comment, that's crazy man. I'm just beginning to paint with my wife and your voice is smoothing our painting evenings.

    We have a trouble with our zombies : the quickshade step isn't working for us so great. It's drying so fast (1min or so and we can't work it anymore) and we don't succeed to keep the zombie "clean". Even after the varnish they look very dirty (compared to yours). ๐Ÿค”
    If we try to apply very few it's just not working, the shadow/light effect don't work, and if we're coating like you do, we will no succeed to take out the right amount.๐Ÿ™„
    Any tip ?

    We're thinking to join the patron army ๐Ÿ˜Š

  • ruben jonges says:

    Great vids are you planning to paint green horde??

  • alexwhyte78 says:

    I couldnโ€™t find this on the army painter website, is the quick shade in the metal tin (looks like varnish) the exact same stuff as the strong tone quick shade that comes in the ยฃ3 dropper bottles?

  • alexwhyte78 says:

    Bought some of the quick shade that comes in the tin.
    After youโ€™ve applied it, how much are you trying to remove with a brush? Just off the flat areas and stopping pooling? Or applying more like a thin glaze?
    My guess would be the same technique as a wash?
    (Going to tackle my massive darkness mooks using this tutorial)

  • kimosakij says:

    Please do more Zombicide paints ๐Ÿ™‚ i can send you my Green Horde exklusives ๐Ÿ˜‰

  • Todd Krahwinkel says:

    Is the Army Painter Quick Shade the only shade that will give the miniatures the protection you mentioned or do all of the shades do that?

  • SushiSonata says:

    This is top notch, sir. I have no artistic ability at all but I feel compelled to try my hand at this. Thank you for taking the time to make such tutorials.

  • Sandra Richter says:

    Thank you so much for this tutorial. I just painted my very first miniature today. I used your technique and I'm thrilled with how it turned out!

  • Vinsu Karma says:

    Impressive job :-B

  • Myriam B says:

    This is the best painting guide I've seen so far. Thank you for showing all the variety.

  • F. D. 78 says:

    Hi , your models are really perfect, great job!.. When will you paint the new models about zombicide bp green horde?.. Good bye;)

  • Peter Dickinson says:

    Excellent content.

  • David Hoag says:

    I came from Miniac's channel. Glad I did. You do some great work… and that smooooooooth voice.

  • Timothy Borer says:

    Hi. You did a really good job. I really like it. Thanks for the tuto. I would like to paint my characters and I would like to know if you recommend the zombicide BP army painter set? I've seen you use a lot of different paint. Thanks

  • Zesk 06 says:

    The final result is unbelievable.

  • zeehond23 says:

    Holy hand grenade batman, this production quality is amazing.

  • Silvano Lollato says:

    Hello, I wanted an information, such as colors which would you advise me? Citadel or Army Painter? Thank you

  • Vincent BOUCARD says:

    Would it be possible to have videos on Rising Sun ? Minis are are great and you videos are even greater !

  • Nixie Starlight says:

    Hello Sora! I'm using your videos and color lists as major inspiration for me painting my own set of Black Plague minis…but then noticed something. In the appendix for this very video, you point out that the one zombie has a Black-Grey mix on its tunic…but ~which~ grey? I 'm assuming the black is Abaddon.

  • Steve H says:

    Now I wish I bought Quickshade, it looks so much better, I was put off by the price as Iโ€™ve already spent so much getting into the hobby (ยฃ150 and itโ€™s all coming tomorrow, I canโ€™t wait to paint my first mini).

  • HarleyFirestorm says:

    I just want to say a big thank you for this guide, I have been painting for years, but when it comes to paint large amounts of minis I am quite stumped I have painted a large Chaos, skeleton and Orc armies in the past and had spent hours, days and months on them, so when I opened the black plague box I was 'oh no, here we go', saw this guide and its become more of a pleasure, I have to admit that I am used to painting games workshop stuff which in my opinion quality wise are much better and easier to paint, but having painted my first 10 zombies I am pleased with the results from following your guide.

  • Paul Todd says:

    I keep coming back to this tutorial time and again, just for the sheer pleasure of seeing how easy it is to paint hordes of zombies so quickly. I don't use Quick Shade myself, just a three shade range of discount wood varnish that I get from a local shop, along with very cheap aerosol yacht varnish (A large can the size of Citadel's Matt Varnish costs only โ‚ฌ2.50 here, making it so much cheaper than buying a brand name variety, and it dries so matt that you can't even tell it's been varnished), to get the shading I like on my minis. It also makes my hobby a LOT cheaper to keep up with, as a โ‚ฌ1.50 tin of discount wood varnish is the same size as Army Painter's Quick Shade. It does need a good stir/shake, and a good 24-48 hours to thoroughly cure, before a spray with yacht varnish, and the different shades are amazing.
    I love how you paint the bases, and have started painting my own stone patterns now, which saves re-basing them on resin textured bases, and is less expensive, too ๐Ÿ™‚ I absolutely LOVE this tutorial, as it always shows me something new each time I watch it, and has gotten me into both Modern and Fantasy Zombicide as a result. Not that I needed much pressure to get into these games, being a Zombie-aholic myself, and the minis are spectacular, even unpainted.

  • Obsidian Ninja says:

    Wow. Serious props to you mate. Really talented and your tutorial is very well made!

  • Kevin Bailie says:

    SO GLAD I have found your channel! This is AMAZING

  • Mick Schouten says:

    Amazing and very handy tips thanks!

  • Yu Arthur says:

    My god these zombicide tutorials are godly!! Will you consider doing some green horde tutorial ?

  • giuseppe vangi says:

    Hi Sorastro could you paint Necromantic Dragon from No rest for the wicked??Thanks!!

  • Foz Foz says:

    Had to comment. !!!

    I have bought the game recently and found this series of painting tutorials. I've watched them through twice and today started paining some runners / walkers and fatty's. This tutorial had informed a number of choices I've now made in relation to primer / base coats and the wash (I bought some Army painter quick shade- strong tone). Even the size of brush used has been helpful (I normally use a 0).
    Mate …. Thanks very much for presenting such an informative tutorial (suggestions) in such an entertaining, clear an concise way. Let be fair between the cost of the game and the price of the materials to "properly" paint the mini's I wanted to make the best job that my (limited) ability allows… This has done just that as I have 10 primed / base coated minis 1 of which has been finished (using citadel wash). It's a long reoad ahead but this made the first mile that bit easier
    Cheers !!!

  • slein grobaaf says:

    thanks for making these tutorials mate, really helpfull for 'the rest of us'! ๐Ÿ˜€ <3 quick question ; i was actually specifically looking for how to highlight when using the quickshade – so i will actually use a matt varnish after the quickshade and THEN make the highlights, and then another varnish?? theres no problem with the varnish taking away details or anything because of several layers (i was thinking about if i should highlight before or after the quickshade, but after the varnish would sure help making it much easier getting the right colours..)
    thanks again!

  • Matsie313 says:

    You are the Bob Ross of miniature painting!

  • David Crail says:

    I Love watching your videos. I am a beginner I have only painted 20+ miniatures so far. Thank you for making such fine videos.

  • iQuitGirls99 says:

    Do you think you could update the method once the new Contrast Paints are out and compare it to the Quickshade?

  • Johnny Ka-Pow! says:

    You seriously have the best painting guides on Youtube.

  • John Lockman says:

    Fantastic tutorial

  • Brein Games says:

    Jesus Christ man. That music is scarier than the friggin zombies!

  • Josรฉ Vilarinho says:

    I've never hit a subscribe button with such enthusiasm! you sir, are amazing

  • Jonathan Perico says:

    Outstanding and truly inspiring!

  • Mike Hammond says:

    This is a great video! If you did this again would you consider doing zenithal priming them?

  • Will Sharp says:

    @Sorastro's Painting After applying the Tamiya X-27 for blood effect – do you need to clear/protective coat? Or, is it fine to leave as is at that point? Just bought this game and ready to paint!

  • ScheDa663 says:

    So I recently got my hands on some Strong Tone Quickshade in a can as well, and I'm wondering if there is some variance to how that product behaves. My stuff tends to dry suuuper fast compared to yours. Like when you say you will return to a mini after a couple minutes to wipe away any more pools of shade that might have formed? There's no way I could do that currently, I got about a minute tops before it coagulates wherever it currently sits. It could be the temperature since it's really warm and arid here at the moment, but your Quickshade also seems somehow more runny in general, judging from how thin your layers on the smoother areas are. Do you have any experience with thinning the stuff? I'm guessing turpentine should work but I'm hesitant about pouring any into the whole can

  • Dogaer !! says:

    First of, one of the, if not the best painting tutorials! Great job, helps me be a better painter still!
    One question about this Guide tho, why did you not zenithal prime the zombies?
    I see you do it to all the other miniatures so is there a special reason why you did not do it to the zombies?

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