Paint the Town Red with Shirley Adams Sewing Connection

Paint the Town Red with Shirley Adams Sewing Connection


Lively Music Hello Shirley Adams for the Sewing
Connection series 17 program 7. Most of us so for the fun of it and what I
really enjoy is making everything look not only as good as I can possibly do,
but also to look distinctive, to have that something extra. we’ll work on more
man-made leathers today but these techniques could just as easily be
applied to other fabrics, whatever it is that we want to embellish. now what I
have here is another thing that I saw in a catalog and I thought I can do that
just find a pattern that’s close to it and make the differences here it is down
here or something similar at least I changed a few things on it the pockets
are different and so on but I kind of like the idea down there so I just made
something kind of similar and what I’m going to talk about is the belts and the
belt carriers and a few embellishments then well what I have for a belt carrier
on this one is kind of little tortellini what I have for a belt carrier on
another one might be something different but I’d like to tell you about those
these things all sort of look like pasta to me any of these carriers so first of
all let’s just go back to the one I was working on last week that plum colored
one and I haven’t made the belt yet for it but it’s going to have a belt there
around the waist it is also just a jacket to wear over pants that I’ll have
belted I’m working on it right now but notice I had to piece it it wasn’t long
enough as far as how long a belt should be when you don’t have a pattern for it
put a tape measure around your waist and tie it up to see exactly how long you
wanted to know if that tape measure isn’t long enough maybe you want it an
extra six inches or whatever but at least this gives you a good estimate and
you can decide how much shorter or longer you want it then the tape measure
and since I wanted this longer than the piece of leather I had I’ve pieced it
and notice how I didn’t do a straight cut across there it is cut in an angle
so that when this is all sewn together and turned right side out the bulk of
that joining will be distributed and notice also when I put the interfacing
in I didn’t put it over that or it would just emphasize it on the outside
I wanted it to be as invisible as possible so I put the interfacing under it. I put the interfacing on first stitched
and pressed afterwards and notice also it has interfacing all the way across
sometimes I would only put it on half a belt but this time I want to beef up
this belt a little bit and make it heavier so you have to make all these
judgement calls as you’re in the process of sewing to decide exactly what’s going
to be best well I might also besides just fascinated with belts do something
with zippers on some of them I’d like you to look at a model who’s wearing a
zippered one and this is just a fun jacket it’s a it’s a leather motorcycle
jacket man-made leather and I decided it would be a fun place to put crystal
zippers so to put crystal zippers in you can do it a couple of ways here I’ve
just cut a little slash in this and slashed it to the corner so that I can
press the seams back that’s one way another way if it’s easier because you
always look for the easiest way the way you can do best another way is to put a
piece of lining fabric on and stitch around and then slash through all those
layers and maybe that makes it easier for you to turn it all back accurately
instead of just turning back a small seam and then of course once you have
that done it’s just putting it over the zipper and stitching around it so it
really is an easy application but also back on the model notice that it does
have a belt and it has the tortellini on it the same as the one I’m going to put
on this or already have put on this red leather one so to make this belt I’ll
show you in a little bit on the machine because it’s kind of a fun little tie
belt with a fringe on the end that I’ve seen in a couple of commercial things so
you can make whatever you see you can make it here’s what the belt loop looks
like and this was made over a fast turn so that I could just turn it right-side
out it’s just a tube pressed or not pressed at all just stitched and then
turned right side out and you cut lengths whatever they need to be and
this little one how I have sewn it on is just to kind of roll it around I didn’t
want anything top stitched I wanted it’s just have a soft look all of the waste
treatment is very soft here and then to stitch it on I simply did a little
stitch from this side of it machine stitching
but I did a little bit here as I could as I could reach it and did a little bit
over here so it is secure and all that joining that doesn’t look too wonderful
as you look at it the belt covers it no one will actually see it so it’s just
fine now what I very often do with belt carriers is this I have already pressed
this on and it’s peel off of paper it’s a fusible and I’m just going to
press this again real quickly to warm it up I’ll do this little short one instead
and if this is just for purposes of warming it up because once you have it
warm then when you peel off the paper you can with your fingers do most of the
rest of the job okay I’ve peeled off the paper if I can
get it off my fingers and then I’m going to just bring these edges to the center
and when you press it down it’s all warm it sticks together and bring these edges
to the center and press them down so this is an easy way of doing it and then
just turn it over again put a press cloth on and press it and then I’d take
it to the machine and go ahead and stitch it so all these are stitched but
that’s how they were made because sometimes it’s easier to do it this way
than to turn the little tubes inside out so whatever works out right now there’s
these are the belt carriers by the way that obviously I’m going to put on the
plum jacket with that wider belt another kind of belt carrier might be on this
jacket back here and it’s just big patch pockets in there long enough at the top
the pockets are that I folded under the top edge of them and that’s the belt
carrier for that jacket so a lot of different ways you can do these things
and it’s fun to invent some things that nobody else is doing now what I want to
show you over at the machine is how to do this little fringy thing on the end
of a belt so let’s just go over there and see what happens
and before I tell you about that belt before I show you that we ran out of
time last program and so let me show you what we were working on at that time I
was just telling you for a square pointed collar that you would first
grade it make each seam allowance a different size
and then you would turn it so that it’s right-side out and roll it slightly to
the back side and press it but what if you have a rounded collar and I do on
that coat that I had on today that’s a shawl collar it’s all rounded
there you can’t put that over the point presser and press it open first as you
can with the square point and so what you do if you have a rounded collar like
this is go ahead and grade it the same way you want one shorter seam and one
longer seam allowance so just go ahead and grade it and then turn it right-side
out and you can’t depress it open first you just turn it but what I find very
helpful as I turn it it’s just kind of press it with my thumb and fingers like
this I just sort of rub it together and it does a fairly effective job of
pressing it temporarily until I can then just put it down flat on the ironing
board put a press cloth on top and press it because without doing that it tends
to want to come out in little Peaks like this and doesn’t really do a wonderful
job so there are all kinds of techniques just try it on scraps first and you’ll
get the best way that way what I’m going to do though with this belt here is the
end of a belt the same as that one and you can see as I turn this big tube
inside out that it does maybe you can see it it does have some cable cord
inside because I want it padded out inside so that it stays nice and fat
about the size of your little finger is how big it is perhaps and then as far as
this end goes take a piece of the leather oh this one’s about three inches
wide and about five inches long make that friends as long as you want
and just go ahead and cut all these little fringy things either with a
rotary cutter because you can certainly cut it with a straight blade and just
stop in the same place on every one of them or cut it with shears either one
whichever one you find that you can do the better job with and once you get it
all completely cut all fringed then you just put it on the end of that belt and
I think I’ll just cut it off right here because I probably have about enough to
go around it okay actually I would make it longer for a bigger fringe but just
in the interest of saving time then what I did to get that on
put it like this right sides together on the end of the belt and just roll it
around and once it’s all rolled around here then under your foot we can do a
little bit of stitching there and what I want to stitch is just straight stitch
across the end and just do this carefully now you’re going uphill
because there’s a lot of stuff here and if you find that it isn’t going to do
the job I like to turn the handwheel here first to see if it will work
because sometimes since you’re going uphill it won’t want to go across now as
a whole these Suede’s and leathers are so nice and soft but it doesn’t present
much of a problem and I didn’t even do a great job of stitching this because I
didn’t start at the edge and I’m not going quite to the edge I’m going to
back stitch it still is going to work out just fine
and the reason I didn’t do a wonderful job is because had I started on the end
the foot would have been going too much too much of a slant you want that foot
to sit flat as much as possible and the same for the other end it’d be slanted
the wrong way and it might tend to skip stitches or give you a few problems if
the foot is slanted in a way it shouldn’t be so I really have mainly
just done this across the top and then you just work it around by the loose
edge here first you start turning it and just keep turning it as it goes around
and it comes out looking magnificent and you can see what an easy thing it is to
do but doesn’t that end up a pretty little finish so that’s how that belt is
everything we do is really pretty simple if you just figure out how to get the
job done okay well let’s move on and after I got my red jacket done I had
some extra fabric and so with that extra fabric of course nothing goes to waste
in my sewing room it’s all going to be used sooner or later so what I had is
enough to make this vest and I had enough left over from this blouse to
line it in the silk that I used in the vest but what I was doing on this is top
stitching and thinking what I could do that’s a little bit dear
now a couple of things I did that are different this comes down to a low V and
so down here at the bottom I thought well why don’t I just have the
buttonholes going in the same direction as the v-neck line instead of making a
separate line and going across as buttonholes usually do but doubly I did
that because I was going to have all this elaborate lacing go along and so I
again didn’t want to distort it by having that go a different direction so
this is why the buttonholes go in the same direction as the lacing and try for
whatever buttonhole seems to be best on your machine it might be any one of a
number of them try them all to see what works out best in the leather now any
kind of buttonholes can be done in this notice that I had the bound buttonholes
on that deep plum color jacket on this I’m putting machine buttonholes you name
it whatever you want to do they all work out very well because this is such an
easy fabric to work with I really love to and so I just put in machine buttons
there or buttonholes and then as far as the button goes last series I did some
covered buttons or buttons that you make yourself instead of buying commercial
ones here was one that I liked and this was the same leather and I actually
intended to use it on that leather jacket that I just took off
except I ended up making it a wrap coat and not even putting any buttons on so I
didn’t use them but what this was was twin needle pin tucking and you just do
that on a big strip of fabric and then cut out the circles and cover a button
so that’s what I have here and it does make a pretty button I’ll use this on
something else for a contrast on some sort of maybe a tweed a wall or
something and put these leather buttons on it what I’ve actually used then on
this vest is just commercial buttons and I decided because they had kind of big
holes in the buttons this would be a good place to make instead of sewing it
on with thread it seemed to be just a good place to sew it on with little
leather strips so again just use your little rotary cutter or your sheers
either one and cut strips of this now don’t cut them too short to begin with
or you’re going to have a hard time sewing a knot or tying a knot what I’ve
done is just do a bar attack on the machine
that’s dropping the feed dog and stitching in place they were just bar
tacking this leather on and then work with a button that has big enough holes
that you can just thread this right through I’ve cut these to a point the
end of the little leather strips so that it’ll go right through that buttonhole
and just pull it through on each side and then tie it or you could do the
reverse you could put it through the other way and tie it onto the jacket in
some way and just have it showing us a bar across the top but I kind of like
the idea of a little tie there on top so I’d tie it and this doesn’t come untied
easily so if you ties us to single knot it’ll probably stay and you won’t have
to do anymore and then go ahead and trim off the ends and little points or
however you want them to be trimmed it makes another kind of pretty little
detail something a little different that you won’t see everyone else wearing is
what I’m always after what I also did though is some top stitching now anytime
you do top stitching on this you probably want to make bigger stitches in
any of these collars I have a lot of top stitching going on the collars of any of
the leather things I have or the suede things and almost always when I do top
stitching I’ll just get a little scrap of fabric here and do a little top
stitching on it to show you almost always I do one line of stitching that
is the width of the presser foot away from the edge so one line I might do
like this I’ll tell you what I’ll do it in there a piece of red instead because
it’ll show up better so let me just get this red scrap over here and fold it
under and the first line I usually do the with the edge of the foot because
that does a good job and I’m going to enlarge my stitches way up to about Oh
three or even three five maybe back to three okay and as you do those stitches
then just keep it the edge of the the fold of the fabric the edge of the
fabric just keep it right at the edge of the foot so that you can make us a nice
straight line now what you want to resist when you do any
like this is the temptation to watch the needle go up and down because this is
when you make a a crooked stitching line if you just watch whatever your guide is
like the edge of the foot in this case then you’re going to do a much nicer job
what I’m going to watch for the second line because I want a really nice flat
look so I usually on those tailored type things do two rows of stitching so here
I’m going to do this one close to the edge and here what I’d be watching is
just a little place a little gradation right there in the foot I’d watch that
to make sure that I have an even line and any place you don’t have an even
line for goodness sake take it out and do it over again because you want it to
look really marvelous well if I’m going to do something a little bit decorative
what I’ve done here is just a really big stitching line like this now these were
all perhaps about 3.5 or four-point these stitches that I made here in this
leather are really big stitches they’re quite far apart and I just wanted to
experiment a little bit with little laces cut from the here I have a whole
lot of them cut cut them again with rotary cutter or scissors whatever is
easiest this is already untied and then I’m going to do a little lacing here
I’ll do it with the purple since it shows up better on the red and what I
use for lacing is a tapestry needle because it is with a nice big eye here
and it has a blunt point and that is so big you can easily thread your leather
through it and if you’ll just stay in now that’s another thing okay let me get
it through again and then do a little lacing now what I’m going to do for this
lacing is I have done these stitches so far apart they’re about the width apart
as these old laces are that I’m going to put in them therefore and I was trying
different ways as I go back and forth and lace under that stitching this I was
going through two rows I have two parallel rows here and going back and
forth and this is how I thought I was going to do my vest but you know how you
keep changing ideas right in the middle of the project here I was going about
every other stitch back and forth and I thought no I didn’t like that look this
looked I kind of like so that I’d have a solid piece down the middle and these
little Peaks there on each side and then I tried it just a single line of
stitching I thought I liked that one better still so this is what I
actually did on that vest and that’s just starting here and going through and
make sure each time that it’s the right side of the leather that shows the
backside of the leather of course is just a knit kind of a tricot look and
then I’m going to go right back the next stitch right next to it because I’m not
going to skip any stitches I’m going to take every one of them and when you get
up here close then make sure that you have you know just get it up close so it
forms a little peak and comes back again and then go through again the other way
now this is another good activity when you’re on the telephone when my sister
calls I do things like this because I know she’s going to talk for an hour so
I always have some hand projects right next to the telephone so that I can use
my time to its best advantage and so I’ll just straighten it each time before
you pull it in tightly and then go back the other way so it just goes back and
forth and that’s kind of a pretty way of doing it I like that another way might
be to use something completely different here is some ribbon that I’ve gone
through the same way and just done that instead of using leather scraps or
another way is to go round and round as this one is that I’ve started over here
it’s also just laced through the tapestry needle but instead of going
back and forth it is curling around that thread each time so if I’m coming up I’m
going down like this so I will go through the same side each time and this
time as it comes through I’ll do a little there pull it up tight and turn
it over you can turn it over these are big stitches so turn it over before you
pull it tight so it looks just perfect every time
so here’s another idea that you might find appealing another one that you
sometimes see in commercial jackets is this one now you can see over on this
vest you can see this probably took me a while it might have been a couple of
conversations with my sister before I got this one all laced back and forth
but I kind of like the look I hadn’t seen anything like this ever before so
it’s something a little different but what I have seen before is lacing like
this and what this is is a couple of ways of
doing the same thing what you use for this is those snap setters that punch
holes and just put it I usually do it with that so I can see where it’s going
down and it might be a good idea before you start to take a marker and also a
little measure so that you get these all evenly spaced so I would probably take a
little hem gauge or something and put it right next to it so that I get all these
holes marks so I know exactly where I want them to be before I start so
they’re all 1/2 inch apart or whatever distance apart you want them and then
it’s easy to get this prong right down on top of that little mark you have and
punch it what I’ve also done with this and I probably would do this with the
edge of a jacket notice it’s leather on both sides it’s two layers of it I have
this one fused together with some of that peel-off paper of fusible so that
it firms it up a little bit it makes a little bit stiffer and it holds it right
together so it’s easy to do this job when you do that and then as far as
lacing this this one just goes round and round and each time you take a stitch
through you can either do it just with this because that hole is big enough
that you can do it this way or you if you find it easier use that tapestry
needle or this one just goes in and out so it’s like a basting stitch here and
this one’s also pretty maybe to do it in the same color or maybe as I’ve done
here in a contrasting color whichever you prefer but it is kind of a pretty
look well remember last week I had a vest on and I want to show you the model
in the vest that I had on last week because it was all done with a memory
card and I like what those memory cards do on my memory craft 9000 notice the
trapunto stitching that goes all around the collar and down the front and around
the hip line around that band this is all done not by me for goodness sake it
was all done automatically on this quilting card this memory card the 106
card and it has I don’t know 4550 designs just a wonderful array of them
so what I have done is stitch all around that just automatically just push the
button and the Machine does it all by itself and what I have quilted that too
is this backing it’s just a fleece it’s a sew-in fleece that I’ve put on it and
it gave a little bit of extra loft so it’s more leathery that way but then
also what I have done on that is just cut little holes in the back side of it
and with that little hole cut then you can push in a little fiberfill a little
quilt batting and push it in with whatever tool seems to be applicable to
the job whatever it does at best maybe the point of scissors maybe some
tweezers to get it started in there but anyway you push that in and that pads it
out nicely and gives that three dimensional look so that’s what’s been
done on that but there are other ways you can use the same memory card and
once you’ve dialed the design and I’m just going to do that I’ll go back to
the menu here so that I can go to automatic embroidery and what design I
have on here right now is this one number five I see so I’ll just push that
and this is what number five would do that’s this design it’s not the same one
that was on the vest and what I can do instead of stuffing it and making that
trapunto look is how about some cut work out of the same thing so what I have put
together here instead of the softer backing is three different layers of
leather and why with those three different leathers and with three
different leaves here I have cut this one through one layer only so the silver
shows I’m going to cut this one and I’ve already started it through two layers
and so what we’ll see and I’m just going to cut as closely as I can as close to
the stitching over here as I can what we’ll see here is the blue leather
because I’ve gone down two layers and what I will do over here is probably the
silver layer again so that you have three different things that show and it
just makes a really pretty something different again maybe they didn’t mean
for that memory card to be used this way but that’s the joy of being a sower you
put yourself into it and so you don’t depend just on the machine to do
everything it will do you can still vary it
still more by putting your own individual looks and I’ll just get rid
of that but you can see I’ll have several colors there so that’s another
fun way to use it or here’s something else if you aren’t so blessed as to have
this machine and to have those memory cards you can still do some free motion
stitching or some do your own designs what I have done here is just take
little maybe labels maybe computer labels or maybe the little sticky notes
and I just cut little squares out of this sticky place here put it down on my
leather and stitched all around this and if you don’t have any artistic ability
goodness this is certainly an easy way to go and then cut down to the different
colors this way and you could make some very interesting designs by varying the
geometric things that you put down there. everybody can do this successfully no
talent needed you don’t have to be an artist everyone can do beautiful things
on the sewing machine and don’t you just love to sew? well I’m not going to throw
away any of these scraps, as they can at some time all find a use as
embellishments. sometimes the remnants of this and that goes so well together to
become one piece all color-blocked next time we’ll work on it. Come join me Lively Music

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *