In today’s tutorial I am going to focus on washes, both commercially produced and self made washes from oil paints. Adding washes is a technique of painting models with very thin mix of paint. It is used to enhance the surface details, create artifical shadows and add depth. Washes can be mixed from oil, enamal or acrylic paints. I start with washes made by Tamiya, namely Panel line accent color. Tamiya produces several shades, but I prefer the simple black one. I think, that dark brown color has very weak tone, and it is hardly visible after coating model with varnish. The advantage of these washes is an excellent fluidity, which creates a symmetrical coating, dries fast and you can easily wipe the wash off with a thinner. Tamiya wash is not suitable for surface coating, but it’s great for panel lines and small recesses. It can happen that it doesn’t reach all the places when coating large areas. Now the dark brown wash. Shade is suitable for white or very light camouflage color. You wouldn’t even notice it on darker one. Wash is going to dry in 10 minutes. How to wipe the dried wash off? I use Tamiya X-20 thinner or less aggressive Thinner for washes from Mig production. You can also use turpentine. Here is the result after wiping the wash off. If you have sprayed your model with gloss varnish thoroughly, then you can wipe the wash off without problems. Wash will stick on surface coated with flat clear or semigloss varnish, and it will be difficult to wipe it off. Acrylic varnishes proved to be the most useful, because they are very resilient. I use Gunze Mr. Color Super Clear III and classic glossy Mr. Color. Tamiya varnish is not bad either, but it is necessary to apply it in two or three layers. Then I use Alclad aqua gloss varnish for metallic surfaces. Now a demonstration of Tamiya wash on a small Star Wars X-wing model. The model has a lot of raised sections and details. Tamiya wash is going to work really great here. Afterwards I can nicely remove it from the wings, so it will stay only in chinks and on the edges. I use it for cockpit, chassis and wing flaps when building aircraft models. Now, other washes or rather shades. It is not possible to wipe them off and they are applied on flat surface. I usually use them when painting scale figures to create artificial shadows. They change the tint of base color so they act as a color filter. Simmilar product made by Vallejo. This is how it looks after drying. It would require too much work to create simmilar shading with common paints. Yet one more demonstration on the model. If you try to wipe the wash off, you will remove the underlying color too. And now, finally, let’s look at oil washes. It really does not matter which oil paint you buy. The important thing is, that they must be fully opaque. So you can simply buy cheap Umpton or Abteilung paints. Expensive paints for professional artists could cost even 20 euros for a piece, and they are great for painting scale figures, but I think they are too good just for common washes and you can as well as work with cheaper ones. At the beginning you will need only three colors – black, brown, and white. You can use white wash to soften black or very dark camouflage colors. That was just a short introduction. It is not good to work with paint extruded straight away from the tube. s you can see, it containes a lot of oil that you don’t want to have in the wash. Therefore, I squeeze out the paint to a paper napkin and leave the oil to soak in. The less oil you have in the wash, the faster it dries, and you do not have to wait a week until it is fully dried. I use Mig Thinner for washes for thinning oil paints too. I coat the entire model with wash using a standard brush. The wash makes the base color a little darker, and it is therefore necessary to take this fact into consideration when you mix paints for base coat. Do not apply wash on the whole model at once, but progresses rather gradually. One wing first, then the second, bottom, trunk, etc. Some people leave the washes to dry for up to 6 hours, but if you use a hairdryer then you can wipe off the dried wash just after 10 minutes. You can use a common dry paper towel. I am wiping it off in flight direction. This way I can create a very subtle effect of wear and tear. I suggest using surgical gloves when wiping off other parts of the model. Wash properly dries after 3-4 days, and without gloves you could leave fingerprints on the model. A little summary at the end. If you are a beginner, then you probably only need Tamiya Panel line accent color and turpentine. I mainly use oil washes, because I create rivets by hand on the majority of models, and then I cover the whole surface with wash to get the paint into all rivet holes. Tamia wash isn’t good in this case, because you can’t wipe it off with a dry paper towel. I usually use oil washes on surface of model, wings, and then I use Tamiya Panel line accent color for fuselage and details in cockpit. It is not in my power to show and describe all existing washes, so please consider this video only as a brief guide, what you could use and what proved useful to me personally.