How To Paint a Car – Hands-On Cars 14: Painting The Camaro!  Kevin Tetz & Eastwood

How To Paint a Car – Hands-On Cars 14: Painting The Camaro! Kevin Tetz & Eastwood

on this episode of hands on cars Kevin
shows you how to prep a car and paint booth before giving you great tips and
tricks as he sprays base coat and clear on the camaro with the eastwood
concourse pro paint gun hey guys kevin gates for hands-on cars
well the day is finally here project said sled is prepped its prime
it’s blocked and it’s ready for paint after months and months of work we are
finally here and I’m so soaked i can’t believe it we’re going to show you how to shoot
paint and give you tons of other tips on how to get yourself out of trouble and
how to do proper paint prep including masking and I get to try out my new
concourse pro spray gun as well as show you guys how the new Eastwood 421
premium show clear lays down on a vehicle like this now the vehicle is mostly masked up but we
left some spaces to show you how we did it because it’s basically the same
technique let me show you what I did obviously all
the panels are often the car we’re doing this because we’re shooting a solid
color and I don’t want any tape lines and I don’t want to have to spend the
time and jamming it out backmasking and all that kind of stuff this saves us
time different color metallic color graphics well that’s a
different strategy have made paper doors to keep the over spray from the inside
keep the desk from blowing into the outside and have skirted the entire
vehicle all the way around to keep that overspray off of the newly painted
suspension components now these parts are sitting on a stand
that I’ve had for years it allows me access to all the areas i want to paint
on these parts if you don’t have something like this
one you can get creative with your big 175 and make your stance the point is this eliminates the time
investment in masking and eliminates the possibility of tape lines as well so
it’s a good idea now the front subframe you’ve seen
before it’s freshly painted and it’s completely assembled so I’ve bagged it
to keep overspray off of it as well as I’ve mask the firewall because I painted
it as well will show you that a little bit but i wanted to say that your golden
masking is to keep your paper as smooth as possible that way you don’t have
folds in areas that you’re over spray can collect in and possibly get blown
back out into the paint job areas like this it’s really worth the time investment to give it a good
inspection and come back flatten out spots like that just eliminate problems
in almost every instance on this car i used a technique called backmasking or
back taping this technique is clearly demonstrated in an education
instructional series but in case you haven’t watched it going to show you
what I’m talking about I like to use inch and a half inch tape
basically what I’m doing is using about half of it on the inside edge is
self-explanatory I’m back taping and exposing the sticky
part of the tape it makes it really easy to blanket this with another piece of
paper and use the sticky part of the tape it just makes a nice job attachment
but i also like to use a little bit of reinforcement kind of like building a
web like this under here you can see what this is gonna do it was
a little bit of an area of support for the masking paper that we’re gonna put
in here just in case just in case it allows it to if you drop a tack rag on
there is not going to crash this up all in and now i take a very sharp single edge
razor blade and I’m lightly cutting just the paper not the masking tape underneath last step to take some of the masking
tape and again sticky part of the tape to the sticky
part of the tape makes this really easy now this fender has been prepped and
sanded exactly the same way as the rest of the parts that you just saw in the
spray booth and I’ve got it mounted on my super stand so i can get access to
the back sides of the panels and the jams so I don’t have any over spray or tape
lines when I assemble this car now this fender obviously hasn’t been
prepped at all it’s in eastwood hi build 2k primer surfacer in black and although
it’s been body works it’s nice and straight it’s not prepped it’s not ready for
paint so we’re going to show you exactly how we did it now there’s a difference in the strategy
between a solid color and a metallic color this obviously is getting a solid color
is getting a black paint job so solid color you can get by with 400
grit being your last stage of sanding if you’re spraying a metallic you want to
finish off with 600 grit that way the metallic particles don’t end up in
those sand scratches and stand up and look weird so we’re going to prep for 400 on this
panel type now the goal is to finish off with 400
grit but i’m going to start with 320 now this technique is going to tweak
some of you hardcore restoration guys if you’re watching but i have a collision
repair background so I know how to send with machines properly and if you don’t
abuse a dual action center it can really help you out this is flat
this is not this is flat this is flat it’s a mating surface so
i’m gonna show you how to use a DA sander to where you don’t carve up your
panel or round off any corners start off with the relatively low speed on your
sander and just sand the flat parts this technique is about saving time and
creating a very flat surface for your paid to sit on you notice I’m using a
light touch and only sanding the flat surfaces the DA sander will damage the peaked
edges and create Distortion on curved surfaces so you’ve got to stop with your
flats are sanded now this is the same grade 3 20 on a soft Center you can see
what i did but more importantly you can see what I didn’t do I didn’t ride my
style lines I didn’t ride my convex and complex shapes that’s four hand sanding but we just
bought ourselves a bunch of time and save yourself a bunch of rubber so now i can use blocking techniques one of the things I really like about
the east with black toque a primer is that it acts as it’s on guide going you
can tell you send it through you can tell when you’re done with his step and watch my technique the block face is
rounded slightly and I’m rolling with this curve like I said we’ve done our
body work the panel shaped like we wanted and it’s
nice and straight where it needs to be nice and straight so I don’t want to
change that by sanding and a lot of time priming and blocking and we don’t want
to go backwards we don’t want to rob ourselves of having done all of that
hard work on these Peaks style lines i found that if you’re too crisp sometimes
they look a little weird so when i’m done blocking I skate over them just a
little bit just a mute that peak edge and it’s still nice and straight but it looks just real clean and real
crisp and just one step above factory your tendency is going to be to grab the
air hose and blow the dust off and see if you still got some stuff to sand I want to change your mind on this yeah the most obvious benefit is that we’re
not surrounded by a cloud of sanding this that I’m sucking up in my lungs the other benefit is that the dust has
gone and now i can see if I’m finished sanding yet I’ve got a couple of
holidays here some stuff on the top so i need to keep going just a little bit
longer with 320 but here’s the real point of using the
shop back for extraction if you hit with an air hose there’s a
chance that you can blow that sanding dust into a pinhole if you’ve got filler
work and you didn’t know it was there it’s going to show up in your paint job
and cause you problems cause you solve the creator of fish I by extracting the
dust you pull it out of those pinholes and they’ll show themselves to you
before you paint think about so now that I’ve got the surface exposed
sand into i’m going to start using gloves because if it’s a hot and sweaty
day the sweat and the acid from my fingers can be deposited into the paint
job and come up through that clear especially on a black ask me how I know so we’re going to start with 400 so 400
is the same drill but interestingly enough when you change grits and you
sanded thoroughly to look at the panel changes so again the black toque a primer for me
to it acts kind of as its own guide though even as you’re switching grits
moving up through your project yeah red scuffing pads work great for
inconsistent areas like this because you still want the paint to stick you don’t
want to peel off and if it’s not sanded it’s not going to stick so these make short work of these types
of areas you can fold it over do your inner crevices and cracks and
just like I say in the paint education dvds the harder it is to sand the more
important it is to sand it places like this this is not where you want delamination
when your car is put together and go down the road i’m using my 402 hands–and if I blocks
and across this this is just a line from the inner fender being pressed well I’m going to knock the top off i’m
not getting down in the group so with the gloves with the finger sanding I can get down in here and prep these
surfaces ok here’s a problem that you might have if you remember we put filler on these
edges to close up our panel gaps and look here there’s a low spot so if i get in there with a sanding
block and I block that flat well I’ve changed the fitment of the fender to the
hood I’ve created a gap there so this is the technique i want to show
you on how to get away with that you can fill that in and it won’t show up in
your paint job when you open up that hood this is a contour polyester glazing
putty and the catalyst that goes with it and this is a razor blade the reason I
use a razor blade so i can get a very small amount in a little bit of catalyst
and I can mix it up a bit more catalyst people like Bob Ross here but I can mix
it up you get a very small amount and go in
and fix that pin hole with a very very tiny amount and I can judiciously apply
it with my razor blade very flat it’s minimal amount so my fingers have been sitting for a
couple of minutes it’s sort of hard I’ve got 320 on a block and eastwood
pre-painting prep now here’s where you got to know the
rules before you can break them this is dry sanding paper and this is a wet
solvent but this is going to work so i’m using my pre-painting prep and a wet
sanding situation what that does allow me to fill the low spot the
solvent activates the filler but not the cured primer around it so I’m not
digging into the sides i’m filling in and I’m leveling and I’m doing it quick
and now I’m ready for a cedar and topcoat and you’re never gonna know that
space was there and just to explain it again my filler is much softer than the
cured primer around it the solvent makes it even softer so it
makes it easy for me to level this piece down not affect the edge around and not
affect my panel fit between two panels and I fill in my pin hole so it’s just a nice technique and one
that you can you can get away with something or if it’s not really the
intended purpose of that product but it works great right now we’re going to wipe it down
get it wet see what it looks like and get the first layer of dust off first
before you wet check the final wife solvent now the last final step that I like to
do on something like this before paint is to wash it with soapy water use
dishwashing soap too because it cuts the grease but before we do that I wanted to
show you are cool custom z28 side advance from the factory the z28 side
gills went on from the outside and to me they always had kind of a cheap look
because it’s a cast metal it’s not that great and it kind of
bulges up so all we did was figure out a clamping mechanism from the back side
and mounted them from the reverse and it’s such a clean tasty tidy look that
cost nothing hands on cars is brought to you by the
eastwood company when you’re restoring a car truck or motorcycle Eastwood has
everything you need to do the job right eastwood since 1978 now this is just a pump sprayer that you
get from a home center what’s in it is a dust control spray that you can get from
a body shop supply it just has a nice job of keeping the
dust down in between coats but with the actual dust control spray from the body
shop it stays wet through the whole paint job if you don’t want to spend the
money on this and you can just use the the pump sprayer with water and do it
between coats it keeps you from having to run a hose
in your booth it keeps the floor damp and it keeps
that over spray from being recirculated and deposited back down into your paint
job now this stuff has nothing to do with
paint but it has everything to do with controlling the outcome of your paint
job it’s obvious what this stuff does it kills bugs so whether i’m painting in a
spray booth or just an open shop environment i always pop the top on a
couple of those guys the night before I’m going to spray it
just helps you control that environment one other thing before I put anything
into my spray area again whether it’s a booth or shop i vacuumed it like it’s a hospital
operating room get that stuff off the floor control
your environment keep those things from coming up into the paint job and a
shopback is one of the best things that you can have around your shop for paint
booth prep whatever i’m prepping a vehicle or parts
for a paint job I use a three-step cleaning process
starting with the glass cleaner which is a nice organic debris cleaner I follow that with a prep solvent wipe
down pre-painting prep is a good one and then finally before i shoot paint i
use an alcohol wipe down in a pump sprayer the alcohol gets very aggressive
things like acidic fingerprints up off of the substrate and it works as a very
nice anti-static spray as well and remember don’t use paper towels as a
final wipe spend a little extra money on some body shop safe Lynn free towels it’s money well spent step one two three
step process the glass cleaner okay just to prove a point as clean as
that car looked look what I picked up off the surface
you’re not ready even if it looks clean you gotta clean it here’s the other
thing this one’s done it’s gone get a new one you can spend a
little money on towels but you can have a clean surface step 2 after the glass cleaner is
pre-painting prep you want to wipe one direction roll your rag you’re trying to evacuate
the solvent off the top not rub it in again second stage look at the dirt i’m
picking up this is why this is why three stages of preparation why it’s so
important you’ve got to be clean Betty your final
wipes off and also gives you the opportunity to test for straightness
it’s another way to wet check the last of the three steps is the alcohol wipe
down and keep in mind this is isopropyl alcohol not rubbing alcohol it’s a seventy-five percent alcohol
twenty-five percent water mix that I get from a local drug store what that does rather than rubbing
alcohol is it has a higher flashpoint what is a higher flashpoint me well
you’re not going to blow yourself up if you have a static charge on the surface
like fiberglass or something like that so keep safe use the 75 25 isopropyl
alcohol smells minty fresh look at that where do I keep picking up
dirt I don’t know but i keep cleaning until my rags come off clean that was
toast the cars prepped we’re ready to start
spring we’re using a 3 step system starting
with the East 1121 epoxy as a sealer coat the boulevard black base coat which
is our colorful zetts let and the new 421 premium show clear now we’re using a
sealer even though the primer is black because as you can see I’ve sanded
through some of the spots the sole purpose of a cedar is to get an even
ground code for the color so i don’t have to stack up my color and put too
much on so we start off with the black brown
coat then go to our color then go to clear which is the shiny step get some
epoxy oh man this is a one to one mix ratio which is just all that says is
equal parts so that’s goes up to the five and take
part b which is the catalyst poured in up to the 10 and then I start and spray
it that simple I really prefer the mixing cups because
even though they’re tapered sides they’ve got all the divisions and you
get a proper mixture ratio if you use a mixing stick like this you just stick it
down in your couple the sides are tapered so as it goes up the volume
changes your mix ratio changes and you always want to be accurate so what I do
is use a mixing Cup and I drop in my PPS liner throw in a strainer always and then I strain into the cup liner top
on the top now i’m ready to shoot so let’s talk about gun set up this is
mike on course pro I’ve got the air valve at the bottom wide open the fan
wide open and fluid delivery at the back end of the extent of the trigger everything is wide open until I start
spring let’s set up air pressure this is the east with digital air
pressure gauge it’s a really nice piece but I don’t like spring with it because
it gets in my way just like this gauge here this is a passive gauge look at it it’s
just a brass tea and let outlet and a monitor this will tell me where I’ve arrived at
my perfect air pressure and then i can remove this and spray without this in
the way let me show you the trigger fully pulled
the gun a wide open looking at the gauges side to side i get
my 30 pounds of the gun inlet which is actually 33 pounds at the wall regulator so now but i know i’ve got an accurate
30 psi at the trigger with a fully pull trigger now I can get rid of this thing
and have a comfortable spray experience also want to mention i’m using giant
HVLP fit is there a little more expensive than your typical npt or
quarter inch fittings but the the difference is night and day in your
spray guys you’ve got invest in the High Flow fittings and that includes your air
hose three-eighths ID and your 38 ID couplers now we’re ready to spray but I’m not
ready to spray look at this I just wipe the car down i
got a bunch of dust and stuff on me let’s go clean up a booth box is real important it’s got
masking tape tweezers a bug pic single edge razor blades some touch up brushes
in case I need him and my glasses because I’m old I can’t see it also
gives me a place that’s clean to keep my tack rags for wiping down between codes I let my tack racks it opened up for a
few minutes to mute the sticky so it doesn’t stay on the panel for the first
tak wipe I use a blow nozzle said about the same
pressure as I spray this blows out any dust particles and debris into the tack
rag and get it out of the cracks and crevices lastly I ball up the tack rag loosely
and give the panel’s of final tacking just for good measure I keep a test panel in the booth to
check my pattern before spring I never tested against the wall it’s
just bad practice and looks messy once the pattern looks good like a
squash football it’s time to spray the epoxy goes down first with a single wet
coat I start on the roof working my way to
the middle with a 50-percent overlap to keep the code even and wet my gun has a
1.3 fluid tip in it and I stay about 5 inches from the surface I moved to the quarter panel and work my
way up to the sail panel then to the other quarter working my way up the car
against the air flow of the booth the doors and every other surface gets
the same coat of epoxy which is a color cedar but also helps with adhesion of
the paint and don’t be afraid to hit the decade got to get the hard spots – we
let the sealer dry for about 30 minutes which is just about enough time to
properly clean your gun if you sweat like a pig like me here’s a
tip take a clean wiping towel folded into thirds and tape it to your wrists
making a homemade wristband our temps are about 80 to 85 degrees and humid and
this really helps keep the perspiration from dripping onto the panels even though the base color is black just
like the sealer it’s a different material and slightly
different color so you need to thoroughly clean your gun every time you change materials
especially when you’re using the same gun for multiple steps like we are aerosol injected cleaner from eastwood
is perfect for this and actually saves you money by not have to use up a bunch of cleanup dinner and
having to dispose of it afterwards it works on every part of the gun but
especially well on the air cap and air horns it’s critical to have these super clean
boulevard black base coat is next and we’re mixing it into a cup for an
accurate mix ratio every time since the basis of four to one mix i find the four
to one column and pour from the left to the right first with the color then with the
catalyst remember the seven on the cup is not a mix ratio just a level on the
cup mixing this way gives you a perfect for 21 mix ratio yeah ok we’re attacking off the car again just
in case there’s over spray that we might kick up into the paint another shot onto
the test panel tells me the gun is set up right and we can start spring color i
use the same pattern spring the base coat as I did the sealer the same road
map but i’m using a sixty to seventy percent overlap and about four inches
from the surface you will definitely get a feel for it as you read your pattern
while your spring to keep the hose out of the car I usually have it over my shoulder and
feed it into my spring hand this gives you much better control and
keeps your air hose out of the paint you can see here we’re skirting the car
saves the shiny stuff on the bottom and it also keeps from blowing debris from
under the car up into the rest of the paint job you can see I’m using a medium wet coat
and not hosing the color on there is no strength in the base coat only pigment
and resin so there’s no need and no useful purpose in applying big fat coats typically i like to move from the bottom
of the panels to the top this is working against the air flow of
the booth and helps eliminate dry spray on the doors or any other vertical
surface just like on the roof I use a push poll
method on the hood pushing the paint into the middle and pulling it onto the
other side this make sure I don’t have dry spray in
the middle that I’d have to cover up with more paint because that can cause
solvent trapping problems I’m short and I need to school to finish
the top edge of the hood but that minor inconvenience is fine when we have the
ability to paint the top and the bottom of the panel’s all at once this saves us time and materials but
it’s a little more work to get everything covered with the first coat
flashed off which means dry to the touch the second coat follows the same route
as the first again I work against the air flow of the booth that way the overspray gets pulled
across the freshly painted surfaces and cross links back into the fresh coat and
doesn’t have the chance to become dry spray or dry over spray which can really
cause you problems yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah a magnetic gun holder in the booth can
help keep your air hose off the ground which keeps a clean after the base is
flashed we let the color sit for about another 30 minutes to an hour to fully
dry before we clear code you can see here that it’s just color and has no
gloss for strength to it but the concourse program has handled both
sealer and base coat perfectly i couldn’t be happier with this gun or
base color is done we’ve got complete hiding and coverage
would look at me paint job is work folks and there’s more than one reason to wear
a spacesuit not only does it keep the overspray off
of me it keeps my sweat from dripping into that paint job in the summertime
this is going to be even worse if you’re like me if you’re a sweater well kids to the safety gear because its
dual purpose it protects you and it protects the zed slip since we’re
changing materials again we thoroughly clean the gun again
but the eastwood cleaning kit and aerosol injected cleaner make it super
easy yeah yeah now we’re a hundred percent clean ready
to put clear coat to the same gun I put sealer and base color in and I’m
confident that this is not going to bleed any color am i clear we’re using the eastwood show
clear which is a four to one mix ratio but because the temperature is 80
degrees we’ll be adding the slow reducer which
means we’ll be using a four to one to one column on the mixing Cup we’re mixing a large amount because i
know it takes a quart and a half to get around the car so i’ll be using the
three as a reference to give myself enough for two coats remember the three is just a reference
not an actual amount with the clear added to the first three and the
activator to the second three it’s time to fill to the next three with
reducer as you can see these cups from eastwood
make mixing easy and you get a perfect ratio every time now it’s time for a final wipe down with
a tack rag for the clear into the gun and we get to start spring yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah I like to wipe the hose with attack
right between coats to make sure it’s clean and doesn’t deposit any debris every little bit helps we test the gun
and we’re ready to go the first thing I do is put a coat of
clear on the paper to make sure no black / spray works its way onto the car into
my clear code then I follow the same pattern i established when I spray the
sealer and the color this concourse program has worked great for everything
up sprayed primer base coat and now clear Adam ization is perfect and it’s
really versatile gun yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah while spraying the third and final coat
of eastwood show clear we found some debris in the paint so the
tweezers from my booth box I’m able to remove it and keep on spring the car is cleared and looks good but
the next morning we found a tiny defect in the clear a little fish I and since it hasn’t been
24 hours the clear hasn’t completely cured so we can dip out a small drop of
the overmix leftover and dab it into the spot it will cross link back into the clear
and become the same coding after some sanding and buffing it will be
completely unnoticeable so now it is time to unmask those it’s
led ninja style I cannot tell you how good it feels to
have paint on Zed sled this is awesome because right now even
though there’s a few more panels to paint with the body under paint now we
could drop the engine and transmission and can measure for the dr chef the
wiring harness the HVAC system interior glass all this stuff is now just a
matter of reassembly the hard work is done and my gosh it’s worth it because
i’m very happy with the bodywork a black paint job hides nothing and even though the
bodywork is good we’ve got some work to do on the clear coat there’s a little
bit of dust and stuff so coming up on hands on cars we’re going
to show you some surface correction techniques and color sanding and buffing
techniques that are going to show you how to make clear coat like this look perfect so we’re excited about it
I’m stoked head slate is a car again before we say
goodbye there’s one more trick i want to show you when you saw that I had bagged
the front in the booth with plastic but before I did that I sprayed the subframe
down with the coating called liquid spray mess it’s designed to protect the parts from
overspray it’s just a little bit of extra insurance and it doesn’t matter if
overspread collected on this stuff because it sits on top of the liquid
spray mask and protect my paint like this you can see what happens that’s that’s a
nice coating right there and it just comes right up if you get this stuff when it turns to a
soapy mess and just rinses off with just regular tap water it’s a great insurance policy so make
sure you subscribe to us on YouTube for more details on the sled and upcoming
episodes to where we teach you how to color sand and buff and make the finish
perfect and finish out this car with the help of these wood products for now i’m
kevin gates thanks for watching hands on cars do the
job right help me on the next episode of hands on cars
Kevin bus the set sled and visit the AAC a museum in hershey pennsylvania yeah


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