How to fix rock chips in your paint using Dupli-Color Scratch Fix All-in-1 applicator

How to fix rock chips in your paint using Dupli-Color Scratch Fix All-in-1 applicator


Hi, DIY Jeff here and I’m gonna show you
how to fix rock chips in your paint. Here’s a look at the products that
you’ll need and some of the supplies you’ll need to do this project. The first
thing you’re gonna need and the most important is dupli-color pen applicator.
This is the fix all…scratch fix all-in-one and I’ll explain later where
you can find this at your local auto parts store or online. But you’ll need
this that’s what we’ll be starting with, then we’ve got some CLR for prepping the
surface after we get it scratched up a little bit, a rag to wipe off the CLR… to
apply the CLR, gloves because whenever you’re working with
chemicals you want to make sure you wear protective gloves on your hands to
protect them. Then when we actually apply the paint we have a some type of
little tray here, it doesn’t matter what this could be, maybe even the top of the
lid. A fine tip paint brush for applying the paint, some mineral spirits that you
can use to clean your paintbrush. Sandpaper and this happens to be for
automobile use it’s 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit sandpaper, it’s a one piece of
each all in one package I got at Walmart. Some microfiber cloths that you’re gonna
use when you apply your rubbing compound at the end of the project and then also
for applying some hard shell Turtle Wax, the final seal and protection. I wanted to
show you the pen that we’re gonna be using, the dupli-color pen you can find
these advance auto parts stores you can find them in the Amazon or other places
online. You don’t have to use this brand you can also find the paint from your
manufacturer itself, if it’s Ford, Honda whoever, just contact the dealer nearest
you and they can help you get your paint code matched up, but you can also do it
yourself and that’s what we today. So here you can see it has the
pink code this happens to match my 2005 Honda CRV. And let me show you where you
can find the paint code on your vehicle. So I found my paint code in the driver’s
side door jamb and it’s in with all of the information about the tires, your VIN
number, and my paint code on the Honda is here at the very bottom, NH578. You can also sometimes find this
information in a tag under the hood. I haven’t opened this up yet so I’m going
to do that here in front of you and we’re gonna go through some of the
specifications on this and what’s supposed to be able to do, see how easy
it is based on what they tell us. So opens up… I’m presuming this piece here is
probably just for steady of hand against the vehicle as you’re working. So
this does…yeah that comes off with that, okay, So we have, here we
have the top part and if you can see that it’s a very hard piece of material.
That’s made for cleaning the area, scraping away bubbled paint, scraping
away rust. You’ll see me do that a little bit coming up. And then you have here
this is your fine tip applicator and that’s how you’ll dispense your paint.
You push down on the tip and then, as you’re turned over, with the pen, push
down on the tip and the paint comes out. Also down at the bottom…
excuse me, back at the top, this does unscrew if you want to use just a
paintbrush. This also has the paint stored on a reservoir, so for larger
areas you can use that brush. We’re not going to use that brush for our
application because I think it makes it a little bit more of a mess than we want
to make, but you could do that. And then down at the bottom this comes out and
this is your clear coat. So this screws off… there we go…
your clear coat stored in here. Obviously don’t turn it over like I just did prior.
And that’s what we’re gonna do as last step, we’re putting the clear coat
on. So let’s get started. I have a couple of paint chips that aren’t real
deep, but they do go down to the primer. And you can see here, got one there, one
there. That’s what we’re gonna be working on today. So I’m gonna start cleaning those up. I’m
gonna take the pointed white end of the tip and I’m just gonna use that to kind
of rough this up a little bit… getting any kind of paint that might be loose,
come loose. You can see a little bit came loose there. This one has a bit of rust so we’re
going to be, kinda scrape that off as well. All right, I took my CLR and I dabbed it
on this rag here I’m gonna work this in, working on cleaning up the rust. It may take a few applications to get this
off. The CLR instructions say not to leave the product on what you’re
applying it to, so it says to wash it off with cold clean water.
I’ve dampened up a rag here, so I’m gonna dampen this up here, and get that CLR off of there. Use the dry side. Now I want to remove this applicator top. I’m going to dispense
a little bit of this down in here so I can work with it a little easier. So I’m
just gonna depress, as you can see some paint came out.While I’m working with
that paint, I want to dry off this tip. I don’t want
this tip to have paint stay on it and clog up the hole on the end of it. So I’m
gonna dry that off and then I’ll show you how to apply it. Took my paintbrush
and I want to get the the tip of the paintbrush wet. I want it to be… come to a
point, so that when I get paint on it it’s only one tiny point that’s going to
apply it onto the surface. That gives me a little more precision when I’m working.
So I’m gonna dab the paint, starting off with just a tiny bit on the end of my
brush. Don’t be afraid if you get too much on
the end of your brush, to clean your brush off. It’s much better to start over
with a clean brush, than to get paint in areas you don’t need it. I don’t want to lay a lot of paint down.
I want it to be kind of a thin layer at first. And I’m gonna be applying this in
layers. I’m not sure how many it’s going to take, it might take three or four,
we’ll see. You’re gonna wait, drying time is roughly about 30 minutes in between
layers, and if you need to when you when you run your hand over just kind of
touch it with your finger, with a dry finger and see if it’s tacky or not, or a
clean microfiber cloth. Something that can test it, and if it has any lumps
in it, then it might be a good idea at that point to take you your 1,000
grit sandpaper and do a wet sand on it, and just kind of level it out. You don’t
want any bumps in this at all or it will be pronounced by the time we get to the
very end of the process. Now you want to take some mineral spirits here, which
don’t want to leave hanging over the car in case I drop. Just standard mineral
spirits or acetone and you want to clean your paint brush and the applicator. See
I got it fairly clean just a tiny little bit on the end. Got to be very careful on
these fine brushes, you can’t work with them too hard. You got to be a little
gentle. So you’re gonna want to clean in between each application.
It’s been 30 minutes and it is tacky, well just barely tacky to the touch. So
I’m gonna go ahead and apply the next coat. I looked at it, there’s no lumps or
bubbles in it so I feel safe not having the sand. So I’m gonna go ahead and take
my paint applicator depress again, not taking too much, and remembering to clean
off the tip of the paint applicator so it doesn’t dry. This stuff dries pretty
quick just even the 5 minutes or less I used applicating on the first two
scratches. It was already starting to tack up a little bit on me, so don’t
dispense too much out of your applicator, just take little bits at a time.
I wetted by paintbrush tip again, making a little easier to apply. See on the supple of a second
application here, it’s getting a little whiter, it’s not so clear and see-through. Alright let that one sit and work in the
next one. So, here’s the first one, and there’s the
second one. So we’ll wait another 30 minutes. Working on coat three now. Coat number four, and I believe this is going
to be our last coat. So I think four coats is gonna do it, but
I am concerned about applying the clear coat. Looks a little rough,
even with dabbing it with just that tiny little paintbrush. I can’t imagine what
it would look like if I used the applicator that came with it. I’ve decided
I’m gonna let it dry overnight, and in the morning, I’m gonna go ahead and wet
sand it with a 1,000 grit sandpaper to get it a little bit more smooth
before I apply the clear coat, and the finishing touches. I let the paint dry
overnight, now we’re going to wet sand it with 1000 grit sandpaper. It’s not looking too bad, you can see
all the dullness around the sides here that’s gonna go away when we put the
gloss on it. Of course when we get the camera up on it real close it makes it
look a lot worse than it really is. I think when we get the gloss on there,
unless you were really looking for it, you probably wouldn’t even see it. Next
we’ll put the gloss on. So using my dupli-color pen… on the bottom of the pen
is the twist off, for the gloss applicator. I want to apply this
everywhere, and you can’t really see it in the video, but everywhere that I
sanded. When you’re looking at it, you can see a dull matte kind of
finish and it’s not glossy. So I want to make sure I have my gloss… over all those
areas, and this will get end up getting sanded. As you can see I’m trying to smooth out the coating. It should
somewhat self level from what I understand, guess we’ll see after the
video is done. Alright and do that with the other one. So this is what the gloss looks like
after about 20 minutes after application. It did fairly well level out. There are
some little ridges here and there. This was the other one, that one has some
bigger ridges in it. What I’m going to do is I’m going to wait 24 hours. It says if you’re gonna wet sand it, to wait 24 hours between
your clear coats. It does want me to put on three to four clear coats. I’m a
little worried that that’s gonna raise it up too high, so I’m gonna wait, sand it
tomorrow, probably use 1500, 2000 grit sandpaper,
and see if I need to apply another clear coat after that. We’re looking at the
next morning now. You can see it’s pretty rigid when you get up on it real close,
but if you pull away it’s really hard to tell the gloss is like that.
Hopefully we will get that worked out when we sand it. It’s the next day
now after the gloss is dried, it’s had a good amount of time to cure and I’m
going to use 2,000 grit sandpaper to start with here, and see if that’s gonna do
it for us. I don’t want to start with the 1500 and have it take off too much, and
then have to reapply. It’s important to wipe off the water every
few seconds so you can see what your gloss looks like. All right, so from there I think probably
try to maybe just buff that out, and see how that turns out. I’ll do that on the
rest of them. So I buffed this down with… excuse-me…
sanded this down with the 2,000 grit sandpaper there’s a good shot you can
see a little bit of gloss inside the sanded area. Those are dips and crevices,
if I try to get that gloss out it’s not gonna look real good because I’m gonna
have to really get down on it with the sandpaper. So I’m gonna leave that the
way it is and use my buffing compound and buff it out. Here’s my other one.
We’re gonna buff that out. I got my buffing compound, a clean microfiber
cloth. It’s important that it be clean, microfiber is the best, I don’t suggest using
cotton, but maybe you can. I’m gonna get this… it’s a hard substance… I’m going to
get some on my rag, roll it around get some on there. I’m just gonna work this in. Doing everything in circles. I’m looking
to go over the entire area, it’s okay to overlap into some of the other paint.
This is just gonna help buff it out. Just make sure the area is clean.
I’m applying a medium pressure, I’m not working on it extremely hard but
I’m also not just lightly rubbing over it.
Getting it in around…working it in. All right, use a clean side of this.
Dry it, or not dry it, excuse me, just rub off the excess. And it looks like I’m
probably gonna do one more bit on it, but that’s what the end results
pretty much gonna look like it. Not 100% satisfied, but let me
buff it out a little bit more and see if we can get it looking just a
little bit better. All right, quick wrap-up summary of the
project. In the end I’m pretty happy with the result having never done this before,
I think it turned out pretty well from a distance you can’t even see there was a
rock chip over there. I’m gonna go ahead and throw up a side-by-side comparison here
for you so you can see the before and after Some takeaways from the project, if I was
doing this again, I wouldn’t sand so far around the the rockchip area, and I would
also not gloss all those areas I sanded. I think I would have been okay just
rubbing it out with the rubbing compound, and still had the end result be the same.
But anyway for less than 30 bucks still pretty happy. If you like this video go
ahead and click like and subscribe to my youtube channel
DIY Jeff for more DIY projects. you

22 Comments

  • Not your Account says:

    looks good next time put wax around the spot then use rubbing alcohol just on the spot that way if you do get it where you don't want it you can wipe it off when it drys

  • EliteGeeks says:

    that pen is a shit design, I had paint all over because just like you I oepend it the wrong way

  • DBA says:

    I'm going to try a similar approach but I think I'm going to put masking tape around the chipped area so I don't sand anything I don't need to sand. Thanks for posting!

  • vico see says:

    I've seen "" professionals"" not even close to your results a little more practice and you can make your own chip repair business 👍👍👍

  • SirWhiteCrayon says:

    Not too bad for the first time. White is a paint in the ass to blend!

    I do these types of rock chip fills all the time in my detail shop. The most important finishing step that you missed was using a buffer.

    The other suggestion is when applying the paint (or clear) dry each coat with a hair dryer or heat gun. Also, when applying the clear be sure to apply the first coat and let it dry, then apply it as a glob and let it set overnight. Then wet sand then clear down even with the put around the chip. If you run into pit marks you'll have to apply another coat, let it dry and sand. Another trick of the trade is to cut pieces of sand paper with a hole punch and glue them into the unused end of an eraser and/or use a thin foam sand paper backer.

  • nubz detail says:

    Would have rather seen you use the included brush to see how well it does. One spot with a good brush, and one with the included brush.

  • austin reeves says:

    Noooooooooooooooooo…………………………………………

  • opmwolf says:

    Clean your camera lens. The white tint the entire video has looks unprofessional.

  • paul davison says:

    Use a coloured car.
    Using a white car is cheating as results look better on video

  • Mark D says:

    My only question is why didn’t you wet sand the touch up paint before applying the clear coat?! You could have made it look so much better! I feel like you need to sand the paint and then the clear coat in two seperate steps

  • dphotos says:

    I don’t think you needed to put the gloss on the areas away from the rock chip. Using a DA and Meguiar’s M105 and a polishing compound it would fix the dull part you see in sanding. You could also put the sandpaper on the tip of the eraser of a number 2 pencil and sand that way.

  • Gmonkey says:

    great result. silver hard colour to do. I made a mess of my car trying this.

  • Antonio Marquina says:

    You can also go to your local NAPA Auto Parts depending on the store that will provide assistance with making paint as long as you have the paint code and also the shade of the actual pain to self or the vehicle to be able to match at 100%

  • Michael Kensington says:

    Thanks for the titorial, but thats a lot of work and time for a couple chips. Need something quicker and easier for those who dont have the time or know-how

  • Richard Portelli says:

    Good job, but I would try not to add clear coat to such a large area. Sweet project cars has some great videos on this subject and he shows how it is much easier to mix your color and clear to make a single stage paint to make the job much quicker and simpler with great results.

  • Lars Dahl says:

    You're on the right track. Check out Sweet Project Cars for tips on how to perfect your technique, and, ultimately, the final result.

  • J L says:

    What about paint chips that expose bare metal? What do you use for primer?

  • Alfonso Gil says:

    Too long video, no good resuts…

  • FJK says:

    CRINGE
    Nope. Just nope.

  • Jeff Snyder says:

    Sand, spray paint, clear coat, buff. Done.

  • fakiirification says:

    tip: cut a red rubber eraser in half long way (the kind you used in elementary school) and use that as a pinpoint sanding block to wrap paper around for your wet sanding. Great control, and levels nicely, all while keeping the size of the scuffed paint to a minimum. And you should really go no lower than 1500 grit for the initial sanding, as you want to limit damage to surrounding clear coat.

  • Rodrigo Elenes says:

    Superb

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *