How To Color Sand & Buff Your Car’s Paint on Hands-On Cars Ep 15 – Eastwood

How To Color Sand & Buff Your Car’s Paint on Hands-On Cars Ep 15 – Eastwood

on this episode of hands on cars Kevin
bus the set sled and visit the AAC a museum in hershey pennsylvania yeah hey guys kevin gates for hands-on cars this is project said slit and it’s
painted for the most part it’s been sanded and buffed and we’ve used surface
correction techniques but we wanted to show you more of that I want to pass on
some really strong very valuable and important information on surface
correction techniques it’s obvious that this car has been
sanded and buffed the panels are very flat the gloss is fantastic the image
quality is very good I’m very proud of it however a trained seal can buff a flat
panel what I wanted to show you was the subtle nuances of curved parts big
panels not so much of a problem here is the
gold take a look at the front bumper cover known as a front fascia fancy word
for a while front bumper cover this is anything but flat there’s all kinds of crazy shapes
there’s notes crannies valleys peaks edges all of these her danger zones and
there’s a technique to rubbing something out like this because as important as it
is to get the flat part shiny and smooth it’s equally as important to get the
curvy sexy parts shiny and smooth otherwise it doesn’t match now this might look shiny on video and
it is shiny but it’s not the same we got to have our surface match and
here’s where you start now to do this job we’re going to be using a
combination of eastwood sandpapers and the norton liquid ice buffing system
will get to the norton system later but I wanted to show you these sandpapers
these come in convenient packs of 6 sheets so you don’t have to buy a whole
expensive sleeve of paper and they range from 600 grit all the way up to 2000 and
then we go to a 3000 tries act paper that tries act is really interesting
technology the grid on the paper itself well it it’s triangular shape that’s
where it gets its name and it’s got a bit of a foam backing to it so it makes
it very forgiving and very fine very precise i almost put a gloss into it but
the beauty of this is that it makes it polish so much faster and so much easier
it’s a perfect final stage to just about any color sanding and buffing project
now we’re using water these are winter drive papers water is
just kind of what you do with wet sanding and buffing all that made a lot
of sense so you see a mixing Cup with water in it and a
couple of drops of dishwashing liquid that helps lubricate the paper it helps
shed of the slurry and it just makes a nicer job of sanding and buffing now the
truth is we’ve got grits from 600 to 3000 grit we don’t need all of this we have a very smooth surface thanks to
the conquerors pro to spray gun in the East would paint products so we’re going
to start at 1500 grit go to 2000 grit and then finding 3000 grit will show you
all of those steps the first step is to soak your paper now technically is it required I don’t know does it make the paper last
longer yes it does there’s a shoot of 1500 i’m going to go
ahead and spree soak all of my paper the biggest thing the pre-soaking the
paper does and you can see this in action on the patron location color
sanding and buffing dve is that when you fold your paper for instance when it’s
dry he folded increase it sometimes you
create a rough edge with it wet never happens the tribes act well we’ll deal with that
later I’m folding my paper into thirds which has a couple of things that gives
me a smaller piece of paper to work with and it allows me something to work in a
bit of traction with my fingertip pads on the surface microfiber holds the water nicely make
sure you got enough clear coat on the panel to sand in the first place I’ve got three wet coats on Zed sled and
I know I’ve got enough on the panel so i won’t sand through but you still need to
be careful mostly on the edges and Peaks all I’m after is leveling the surface you want to be careful that you don’t
get your sandpaper in a place that your buffer won’t be able to follow now one of my rules is never finger sand
never use your hand to send except for when you’ve got a surface like this I’m always making sure I’ve got plenty
of lubrication under the paper now we can read our surface see where we
still have to say that these areas right in here obviously well we’ve got a little more sanding to
do because that’s unsanded and that’s well yes and no so i should mention that you have to
stop standing at some point so once your surface is flat well you’re kind of done and you’re
ready for the next step of paper and call crazy the base color as then you gotta repaint
that’s never fun yeah in case you’re wondering this white
slurry that’s coming up that means that you’re standing on a
clear coated surface it will be white regardless of the color because you’re
saying the clear and that’s what’s coming up now in these areas here the
top of this patient right here where I haven’t send it I’m not going to there’s
almost no paint on that edge so I’m purposely avoiding that edge places like
this right here well there’s a little bit of texture
showing through it’s just a little bit more sanding that now if you’ve got more
than one panel to do at one time which most people do i recommend treating it
like an assembly line I’m done with 1500 on my front fascia
let’s move over to the back stay on the same grip it helps me keep
track again this is a very smooth surface there’s almost no trash in it
because we clean the heck out of it and we had a nice clean booth environment so really we’re just after surface
correction smoothing it down so 1500 on this is going to be perfect another thing that using your paper
soaking wet and pre-soaking it does is it makes it last forever I’m not putting down very much effort I’m just gliding the paper over the top
of the surface it doesn’t take a whole lot especially
with fresh clear to level it out really make it smooth once i see a little bit of white slurry
coming up it’s time to check you can see quite well where I’ve sanded
and more importantly where I have to pay close attention here i have not sanded
this peak edge and I’m not going to you don’t want to there’s not enough to
clear coat on that surface to effectively withstand that buffer after
it’s been sanded you want to leave those pure the gloss won’t reflect in it
you’ll never know the difference leave those areas alone here’s a
technique that i can show you on the top edge here ok so my thumb well my thumb is my
sanding pad so we’re going to do a dry run here look
where my thumb is going it’s exactly where I want to sand this area is
visible the tail light doesn’t quite cover it so I want to make sure that
there’s no discrepancy in this surface and that surface so I’m kind of
practicing just to see where my thumb is going to go so now that i know now i could take my
sandpaper effectively surface that area down that’s what we’re doing were surfacing
its surface correction all those guys have said you don’t need to buff a paint
job it probably never popped one out and see
the benefit of doing that type of work with a closer look I’ve achieved my goal of staying off of
that piqued edge and leveling what I want to level and creating the
environment that’s going to give me the illusion that i have a dip this stuff in
glass that’s what we’re after a machined
corrected surface so that should take care of the 1500 grid so now that we don’t have 1500 grit I’m
going to take care of my 1500 paper there’s lots of life left in this paper
so i’m going to set it down here let it dry out on a microfiber and it’s
ready to sand another day and since we pre-soaked are 2000 grit
paper it’s ready for me to fold it into thirds
without the worry of creating a crease that can profile or put a scratch on my
surface that I don’t want so basically two thousand you sand over
top of what you said it with 1500 grip second verse same as the first two
thousand red rock and roll baby typically the second stage with a
fighter grip doesn’t take as long as the initial great does so 2000 is not going
to take us long to surface down as your 1500 it because you’re not cutting that
ultra hard surface cutting well into the resin base technically that is offered you less
resistance you can stay off those edges it’s just
going to break your heart you have a sand through which means a repaint or
touch up paint some other kind of paint we’re sanding we’re not painting ok and the tries act like i said has a bit
of a 4-2 it so it’s very very forgiving if you are sending over pinked edges besides the fact that it’s 3000 grit
thousand it’s very very fine and it goes a long way in the last two forty four
evers especially if you take care of it and rinse it out after use so with all that considered i’m cutting
line in half and using this as my sanding pad I don’t have to pre-soak the try Zak
because well it kind of takes its own water supply on and you can fold it and
bend it anyway and also case you’re wondering why I’m only doing half of the
fascia I want to show you the difference
between sanded and buffed and not sanded and buffed both look good one just looks
better with the 3000 grit typically i run over in about four times treat every panel for every chunk of a
panel like a zone that’s twice make my way back on three
times and up four times like the promise for
good effort to move on to the next part you can see how beautifully this paper
even paper how beautifully it conforms to these inner crevices surfaces unless you don’t you don’t know what i’m
talking about but you can feel the resistance under your fingertips and you
can kind of tell just by feel after a little while when something sent all these areas that we spend so much
time avoiding all the peak edges well the 3000 with tries act all it’s
doing is getting rid of a layer of sanding scratches is profiling almost
nothing it’s getting rid of almost no clear coat so I am avoiding those Peaks
but i’m not really being careful i don’t have to if you take just a little bit of
time and clean out your sandpaper and your try Zak pads are going to be
perfect the next time you reach form and ready
to use again you get so much more life out of them you guys have heard me talk about the
norton liquid ice system before and basically it’s a very very simple system
that works extremely well I use it all the time as a matter of fact that color sanding
and buffing DVD by education features this system it’s a single compound with multiple
paths you start out with a wool pad to cut your sanding scratches your
secondary pad is a blue pad which is a coarse grit but it still refines the
scratches at the wool pad put in it and further refined and we finish the
surface followed by a final step of a very fine grade foam pad last step the
big machine we’re going to use it is the eastwood buffer the thing I like about this the most is
the soft start listen it’s a soft start is going to start
slowly is variable speed now that you’ve never bought that fast
but it’s nice to know that you’ve got some arse to work with and if you want
to build a little heat into the surface but bottom line is this machine works
very well one of the things I wanted to talk to you about was we’re not to use
this machine and that’s what this one comes in handy this three-inch buffer
from eastwood same liquidize compound the same three steps wall course foam
and fine form to finish up it’s a very small buffing pad but the
biggest difference is that you’ve got a nice rolled edge in which to get inside
tight areas to where you are not going to dig in your not going to damage and
you’ve got a very controllable piece of equipment here to get into cities in all
those little crevices and cracks and nooks and you’re not going to mess up
now obviously it stands to reason that you can use a big polishing surface like
this on a flat area even these guys here you can bring it
around but once you start to get inside a cold like that well at 1500 rpm you’re going to pull
the paint off the edges not what you want and that’s where this guy comes in
and you can take it anywhere you want to go you can polish in these areas here
and not break your own heart beautiful thing yes i’m wearing an apron
no I’m not cooking don’t even talk to me ok so we’ve got an
area about the size of a quarter on the big flat surface you can always put more on start with
about that size I like to smoosh it around a little bit buffer RPM can vary but you always want
to start out slow typically I’m gonna buff around 1400 –
1600 RPM but if I’m in a tight spot or around a fragile edge I will slow down the important thing to
remember is not to drive up this builds heat and that can roll the clear right
off of an edge I can check the surface with a clean
microfiber and I’m happy with that that took seconds to bring up the gloss
got a little bit of haze around the edges here but just brought it up
quickly that’s the power that try Zak that’s beautiful so give it a second application and move
on yeah when the surface starts to look like
it’s getting dry what is getting dry time to use a little more compound so 99% of air tools operate in a
clockwise manner here’s where you can outsmart your tools
and your paint this is going to spin that direction you want the buffer
rolling off the edge of the panel so you’re going to operate like this and
that way it doesn’t go against the sharp edge that we’ve avoided so carefully it rolls off the end of it and you
really lessen the chance that you can roll the pain up or burn through that
edge like so yeah with both large and small diameter of
the blue pad you can still cut some of the sanding scratches that the wool pad
didn’t quite get and it further refines the surface making it a second stage out
of three yeah now the last stage is really not very
time consuming at all you’re just kind of getting rid of a
little bit of haze that might be left over in some corners and the white pad
is very very soft it’s a polishing pad instead of a
cutting pad if that makes sense we switch to hear the tool because we’re
smarter than that hand tools we are now you notice I’ve left a little bit of
haze right here that’s not an accident I never drive up
I always leave a little bit of fill on there and that’s where this stuff comes
in this is a clean up and a detail spray from norton and its body shop safe its
non-silicon and it’s the next step in cleaning off your panel and really
getting a good look and what’s going on and I know you’ve got microfibers if you
don’t you can get them from the dollar store guess how much they cost that’s right my daughter it’s a must-have tool just
is as you’re polishing this step out you can look you can watch you can see
the reflections you can see what you missed still gotta work on what you’re happy
now I’m real happy with what we’ve done here i can see a huge difference and i
want to give you a closer look here look at the quality the reflection look at the distinctness of image is
called do I in our industry at the quality of the reflection you can see what was a very smooth
finish laid down by the concourse pro spray gun and against this polished and
machine surface it’s a night and day difference
especially on a black vehicle hands on cars is brought to you by the eastwood
company when you’re restoring a car truck or motorcycle Eastwood has
everything you need to do the job right eastwood since 1978 yeah yeah there’s so much to see here all kinds of
beautiful pre-war cars all restored some original back from one at a time when it
was true coach builders around speaking of coach
builders this is actually in 1924 Rio and it is a funeral coach and people are
dying to get in this ride is a matter of fact they were doing it with a little
bit of a buzz because this thing was actually converted to haul liquor
illegally during Prohibition this is awesome it’s a beautiful
represented piece of history but that’s not what we’re here for there’s an indian display downstairs we
gotta go check out yeah the very first indian motorcycle
prototype was built in nineteen oh one they made six bikes that year so it’s
great to see fully restored versions but what really likes me up are these unrestored original the
nineteen oh seven indian 1906 Indian camelback these are touched only by time this is a restoration manual wrapped up
in a motorcycle and the fact that nobody’s ever had these apart it’s just awesome to see but one of the
coolest things we’ve seen here is this Briggs & Stratton motor wheel check this
thing out briggs & stratton may best be known as a
manufacturer of quality engines for lawn mowers and mini bikes but in the early
20th century they were manufacturer of automotive accessories and made a large
investment in their company to diversify into production vehicles they purchased
the rights to a buckboard type vehicle called the Smith motor wheel and then
increase its engine output by doubling it from one to two horsepower Wow and then renamed it the briggs &
stratton flyer this machine was produced from nineteen
19 – 19 23 and this model j player had a base price of $175 about the cost of a
monthly starbucks bill it’s just a really cool machine i love
the fenders and little gas tank and the fan to cool it and how about the bucket seats and all
the wood and get this when you start the engine the drive wheel is always running the
shifter is really a shifter it just simply as a lever that lifts the
rear drive wheels off the ground for neutral and puts it on the ground to go kind of like a engineered burn out
because when the engine is running the drive wheel is always turning so you
might be wondering how it stops well when you push the brake pedal it presses
the fender against the tire kinda like getting your foot caught in
the spokes and we all know that that can be a tad dramatic these motor wheels
were actually considered roadworthy back then now here’s the beauty and 1906 Indian
camelback not camel toe camel back indian produced their first motorcycle
in nineteen old one and had begun production by 19 03 by 1906 they were
able to produce 1698 of these camelback motorcycles in a year at the cost of 210
dollars each to the customers the name camelback wasn’t actually the
official name of this bike it was actually a nickname given to eight years later because of
the hot fuel tank behind the seat it has a diamond frame like those used
on bicycles but this model is a chain drive unlike many early bikes which use
leather drive belts this single cylinder engine was claimed
to have put out two and a half horsepower while weighing only 115
pounds which means it could push you along it 50 miles an hour pretty
impressive back then now let’s check out some of the other
bikes in this cool exhibit now the heart of Indian motorcycles is its race
heritage these things were born to run in this 28 hill climber well the guy riding this thing had to
have serious cojones check it out there’s no shocks there’s
no brakes it’s a v-twin flathead engine that all
that’s going to do is propel somebody forward up a hill no breaks no shocks it takes it takes a
real man to ride that sucker up the hill now a lot of people don’t know and what
I didn’t know until I came here is that Indian was right there alongside g and
harley davidson helping turn the tide in World War two but out of these bikes this is the one that got my attention it
has skis why does it have skis I don’t know their
outriggers it’s got a big knobby rear tire obviously it’s meant to propel this
motorcycle in a freaking snowdrift I grew up in Canada I’ve never seen this my guess is it
coming home from a pub one night if you go into a snowbank so help me keep
upright but wow what an interesting piece of history that is that’s wacky and there’s tons of stuff to see here
and they’re constantly changing the display so you never see the same thing
twice you owe it to yourself to come to the AAC a museum here in hershey
pennsylvania for us we’ve seen enough i can t is time to go back get back to
work on the camaro after one more scene of the movie are
you kidding well I hope we’ve given you a little bit
of insight as to what it takes to go from a nice-looking daily driver right
out of the spray gun to a possibly award-winning show car finished that you
can do in your garage this is a bit of a learning curve but
it’s not much go to subscribe to the Jets led projects and
our YouTube channel go to the tech support we’ve got tons of videos showing
you how to do this stuff how to do the job right that’s our model
it is to it so thanks for watching hands on cars thank you for watching the progress of
project said sled and I can’t wait to show you how much how much but you can
have building your own car like this oh it’s bring it back we’re getting
closer see you next time yeah


  • Eastwood Company says:

    Don't forget to SUBSCRIBE so you don't miss an episode!  The camaro will soon be finished and the next episodes will cover wiring, lights, interior & drivetrain.  
    Kevin's an Eastwood Guy…Are You?     –     Eastwood – Since 1978.

  • Shea Ribbster says:

    Kevin's the best, I'm real glad you guys have put these videos up at this time. I've been doing body work, paint, and now at this stage, and all of the videos have come out at about the time I'm doing the work.

    GREAT help, and EXCELLENT info… thanks!

  • Jeff Allen says:

    Thank you for the great step by step videos Kevin!

  • LeturN GaragE ! says:

    Nice job !! How many days did you wait for the clearcoat to cure before buffing ? Thanks

  • Jack Orwig says:

    Do you guys do business/would you paint a car if it was sent to you?

  • DieselPunk Cummins says:

    Camel toe!!! 😀

  • MyChevelleSS396 says:

    Keep up the great work and thanks heaps for the videos, so much better than the crappy Q&Ls you see on MTV, I actually get a lot out of them.

  • foxybrown2 says:

    You used to use a squirt bottle.

  • THEuNkNoWnBeAsT34 says:

    when will ep 16 be up?

  • 681 Automotive says:

    Why do you guys always put soap and use a bucket, You dont want soap it blocks the papers stops it being efficent trust me try it, also dont use a bucket use a pressure bottle so your not dumping crap your sanding back into the bucket.

    Use warm water, let the paper soak for 30mins, use a pressure bottle

  • Oliver Lindhard says:

    you should not use soap with the trizap paper, it will throw of the cutting ability

  • Lecksis G says:

    is eastwood products available in asia?like in the philippines?

  • Jay Griff says:

    Nice work and you do a great job as an instructor and spokes man for the product.. Thank You

  • amtpdb1 says:

    How do you handle spots where you might have sanded through the clear? Do you have to sand all the clear off and put another layer of base so that it has the same color and no sanded area or just sand all the clear or…?
    Thanks for the video.

  • 3 2 2 Roulette Strategy says:

    I was kind of surprised to see he didn't use a soft block instead of his hand and fingers.

  • OBServe Garage says:

    Eh Norton!!!!

  • Dan K says:

    Jackie's a punk

  • verdatum says:

    First I've heard of this 3M Tizac thing; looks fantastic. I look forward to picking some up.

  • Justin T says:

    These videos have taken 90% of the guess work out of everything ive done from the start on my Chevelle, my dream car since i was a single digit age, ive followed all the videos with as ive worked with huge success, thanks Eastwood ill be visiting your store in Alsip IL soon

  • T1000AX says:

    amazing finish on that car

  • Joy Mugasa says:

    Hey. Kevin. Ron here in Boston. was wondering can you recomand. anyone who can help me.with my Toyota truck 1987

  • ZZZZ says:

    … what is the square metal frame setup technically called, that he is using to hold the front clip with. It has wheels and appears to have the adjustable sections to enable connecting the front section to this frame setup. I see him using it holding doors, hoods, etc. . Where would on purchase one of these ?

  • Electric Craze Rc says:

    Watched all your videos there was a lot. Thanx for all the tips. We the north. Canada up.

  • cristian paniagua says:

    how many days i have to wait to buff my car after i painted?

  • OLDTIME47 says:

    buffed area looks dry.

  • Freezer Dweller says:

    lol "camel back, not camel toe" – kevin I love your thinkking hahaha I would hire you any day.

  • L477-Richard Palusaar says:

    What importance does the buffers speed setting play while working a surface? Does a high RPM of 1400 do anything that 600 will not tackle or is it all about saving time and being more efficient? Many thanks, you helped preserve my car!

  • MrMagee78 says:

    Even if your trying to smooth out the clear it is getter to use a DA sander especially with 3000 grit paper does a better job, and a lot faster 😉

  • Rick Jaimes says:

    I'd use a soft sponge instead of relying strictly on my hand.

  • Qaiser jaan says:

    hi I am Qaiser jaan from pakistan now italia I like your job End beutifull your shop

  • Qaiser jaan says:

    You are my techar
    I am your students
    Qaiser jaan

  • I T S D A S H says:

    what would you recommend for a brand new vehicle, as far as buffing? I recently purchased one and it has a lot of orange peel as well.

  • THE GRIENDER says:

    Wait! Question!!
    You mean to tell me, you used the same buffing compound, but different buffing pads.
    Gee whiz I'm an idiot!! I was alway told to use different compounds with different pads, and if it was that easy , you have a costumer!!

  • Travis Haley says:

    I have a Goldwing that has a one step paint and clear paint job, apparently that is how they do it now, would it be safe to sand and buff my paint considering that it was painted in this manner. again the paint and clear is done in one step.Thanks.

  • David Roman says:

    its the power of acctually taking the time to sand down to 3000 grit

  • Jacinta Kirisimasi says:

    I Appreciate the free experience. Thanks Kevin. Eastwood do the job right 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

  • nabz says:

    i started painting back in early 80s when bodytechnique was different and when you painted a car it was acrlic enamel or enamel and once finished you were finished …. the finish was all in the painter and how he set his gun while painting and the pre prep of the paint before it went in the gun to ensue it was mixed right and would flash right … base clear is easier but it has sprung a world of sanders relying on paper rather than technique for finish after all you are aplying the clear coat or the shinny finish over thinner with pigment ..technique counts so you dont go over and wetsand and color match …. and put the car together for finish paint all the under should be painted first then assemble then paint door jams then body all together .. ensures a all over fit and complete match of everything ..

  • Dan Records says:

    Would it be beneficial to just buff and skip the sanding? Also, if there's a little dust stuck in the clear, what's the best way to correct that?
    Thanks! (56 Chevy 210)

  • larry gk says:

    Excellent video as all of them are. In the previous one where you shot the base/color coat, you are saying that you don't need to color sand after that step? I assume if you create some texture/orange peel, then you would. I will be using Eastwood single stage urethane as the base fyi.

  • roadstar499 says:

    question: I like that little air buffer setup…I have a 30 gallon 5 hp craftman air compressor will it be able to keep up using that unit..and what exactly is it? Just an angle grinder…excuse my ignorance I use mostly electric power tools..thanks

  • roadstar499 says:

    also how long before you wax?also how long do you wait before color sanding and buffing? thanks

  • SafetyConeGarage says:

    wetsanding=making paint weaker…since your removing coats….not worth the risk down the line when you want that paint to last years

  • waltwitty says:

    What I hate the most is how I do exactly the same procedure with the cut and buff step and I end up with a bunch of scratches, new scratches that were not in the paint initially. I recently painted the roof of my vehicle in black. I waited a week for the paint to cure completely before sanding & buffing. I wet sand with 1000, 1500, 2000 grit and finished off with 3000 wet on a DA, came out looking amazing! I'm thinking, after I buff, the paint will look extraordinary. I used the 3M Rubbing Compound 05973 with a McGuire's maroon cutting foam pad. What a horrible mistake that was. I was left with a bunch of scratches. I wanted to blow up the car into pieces. The more I buffed, more scratches. I feel like re-clearing the whole damn roof again. Is it possible to fix the horrific disaster of scratches left after buffing using the Norton system?

  • C4tube H says:

    Love it , Good job.

  • Wonder Tech says:

    This guy teaching u as honest as he can… even when it come to common sense he still remind u about that… a very good job…

  • Marco Polo says:

    Congratulations 🙏👍🎖🎖😱 excelente Job my friend 🇨🇴🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽

  • Jeff Lever says:

    Bah!!! Kevin, where have you been all my life?! If I'd watched this first, I could have avoided like 20 mistakes! 🙁

  • Amber & Eric Jones says:

    I always block wet sand, to prevent uneven pressure. Blocking helps to keep even pressure and keeps everything smooth. Which I know you mentioned don't use your hands to sand with out blocking.

  • Amber & Eric Jones says:

    I love all of your videos makes me want to start on my car so bad.

  • Racer X says:

    Thanks Kev! Great video.

  • JosephDR says:

    Excellent tutorial, Kevin. Thanks!

  • Louis DeLeon says:

    Nice job bro how much for the front end stand

  • Mike Saul says:

    good job kevin you are the man

  • Jeffrey Hickam says:

    I just got done clear coating my car but I have areas that came out ruff should I wet sand & then reclear coat, buff &polish? Or just wetsand, buff & polish what I have? Thanks for your help & continue the awesome content!

  • King__InSaNiTi says:


  • Eddy Cutz says:

    Just want to say thank you for the great content.I know this video is old but damn, you go into so much detail that you could watch this 10 yrs from now and still get some good info.

  • Test Flyer says:

    Who would put that much effort into a post 1973 Camaro?

  • Yellow Ticket says:

    Wow, 2 bad puns back to back. This guy Dads…

  • Terry Francona says:

    🐪 🦶

  • Marino says:

    Why doesnt eastwood ship to Eu?

  • Andrew Gugino says:

    Question!!! So I bought the liquid ice 3 step buffing kit and I purchased the eastwood random orbital polisher. The only thing is it's a 5/16 not a 5/8 like the backing plate provided. So I purchased a 5/16 to 5/8 adapter for the backing plate. Is that ok to do or should I return it and get one with a 5/8 fitting?

  • Axel Hird says:

    Big indent on the top of bumper

  • cypressbill1980 says:

    pros @ work

  • CMichaelLyle says:

    Sounds like Bob Ross from PBS

  • eliu sanchez says:

    Buen video saludos desde México.

  • SeanByDawn says:

    About to start pain work for the first time and these videos are fantastic. Period. Thank you for posting these!

  • Kenneth Reinard says:

    Can you paint base over clear??

  • Tyler Parker says:

    Please for the love of paint jobs stop looking at the camera while you're sanding

  • Captain Will says:

    All this on METAL, fiberglass…..

    Also works exactly like this when trying to get a piano finish on a piece of furniture.

  • julioyescas27 says:

    👍👍👍You are clearly a high grade professional. Never skip a step. Your work is amazing. Thanks for all the tips. 👍👍👍

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