How-To Apply Epoxy To A Fishing Rod | Rod Building 101

How-To Apply Epoxy To A Fishing Rod | Rod Building 101

so now it’s time to actually apply the epoxy to our guide wraps and when it comes to epoxy what we use and recommend is ProKote by Pro Products and in this version they’re actually pre-loaded 24 millimeter syringes again it’s a 50-50 mix so it comes with two syringes and to mix as you would expect it’s very easy you just put each syringe make sure it’s all out into the cup there’s one and there goes to and now with a mixing stick you just stir to complete now it’s important to note here you don’t want to whip it like pancake batter or something like that that creates a lot of air bubbles just nice even rotations and mixing and you know usually takes about a minute or two just keep mixing until it becomes clear and most of the bubbles are out and just take a minute so while Greg is finishing mixing that up we’re going to go through the last final processes before we’re actually ready to apply our finish the first thing we want to actually do is make sure that our guides are perfectly aligned now I’m going to do this while it’s still in the wrapper but you feel free at home to pick it up and actually site down the rod by referencing our reel seat I can tell where these guides actually need to line up based on the v’s on the support arms of the guides themselves now when you’re moving guides within the guide wrap you actually want to be very gentle remember it’s just thread held on with the tension and if you’re too aggressive shifting them around you can actually loosen a guide wrap to the point of it falling out so you just want to make minor little tweaks moving them slightly back and forth to get them into position once you’re happy and everything straight the last little step we want to actually do is go through and remove the marks left from our China marker that we use to line up the guides originally to do this I’m going to take a piece of my ProWrap thread and actually use it almost as like a little squeegee and just work it back and forth over top of that China marker and it’ll clean the mark off very easily the reason we do this is if during the finishing process any of that epoxy gets out onto the China marker it’ll actually be trapped there and we just want to avoid that it’ll be there forever alright so the epoxy is just about finished here and I think we can go ahead now and start actually applying the poxy so you want to take over here I’ll get rid of everything stick there you go alright so the epoxy finish is actually a relatively easy process as you can see the rod is rotating in one of our RDS rod dryers this is actually going to spin the rod at a constant 9 rpm that will allow the finish to self level during the curing process epoxy finish actually has a cure time of about eight hours until it’s dry to the touch the reason it cures so long is so that it remains flexible over its entire life so when we’re ready to do this process the key is actually to coat the guide and the thread completely you always want to start off by making a nice clean edge and while I do this I’m not forcing the brush flat against the guide rap I’m just kind of pushing the bead of epoxy around making sure that it thoroughly codes everything so once i have my edge started you can go ahead and paint up the guide rap towards the edge of the guide rap once we near the end will do the same process as when we started will hold the brush steady and allow a bead of epoxy to create a nice finished edge at the back side of our guide wrap one thing to note is that the thread will actually create two channels on either side of our guide foot you want to take extra care to take a little bit of the finish and actually fill in those gaps to prevent any water intrusion later on when we’re using the rod you want to make sure and get a nice thorough coating without overloading it too much epoxy will actually cause sagging and just really balloon looking finish so we want to put just the right amount once we’re all said and done with the actual finishing process will introduce some heat using our alcohol burner to help level out the epoxy a little bit further we use denatured alcohol in our alcohol lamps because it’s actually a clean-burning fuel it doesn’t produce any set using a butane lighter could actually produce a suit or a contaminant that will actually show up in the epoxy so with just careful flashes of heat I’m going to introduce my alcohol burner and what this process is actually going to do is eliminate any bubbles that may be trapped under the surface and also level the finish perfectly on the rod with just a couple of quick flashes of heat you can see some of the epoxy actually beads up underneath you can whisk away some of that excess and that’s it we’ve got a perfectly level nice clean finished guide finishing a double foot or a casting guide is the same process as a single foot just a little more effort we’re going to make a nice clean straight edge just by pushing the bead of epoxy around the wrap with the head of the brush we can then fill in the rest of the guide wrap with the finish for this example I’m going to coat entirely under the guide foot coat up onto the second rat and finish it again with a nice clean edge during this process you may notice that some of the thread absorbs some of the finish you can go back and retouch those spots if it looks like it needs a little bit more once everything is thoroughly coated use your alcohol burner again flash under the thread without leaving it under there for too long and this will eliminate the bubbles and help level that finish and that’s all it takes to successfully coat a double foot casting guide now if you’ve taken the time to apply a custom decal to your rod you’ll actually want to protect that with some of the two-part epoxy finish as well you’ll coat this just like you did the guide foot evenly applying some of the finish over top of our wraps and spreading it laterally down the rod always try to start by making a nice clean edge first and work towards the center of the area you’re coding make sure that the decal is thoroughly coated in a hundred percent sealed under the epoxy when you come to the end of your rap again hold your breath flush and make a nice clean edge you can come back in with your alcohol burner and remove any bubbles help level the finish and also eliminate any excess epoxy build-up this way your custom decal will last and look great for the entire life of the rod


  • muffman muff says:

    awesome! that should save me time to do it myself than going to a room builder

  • Retro4fun says:

    Great tutorial! can i use a heatgun for a clean warm the laquér? in place of the alcoholburner.

  • Phillip Michaels says:

    hey do you think i would be able to use 5 minute epoxy instead of your type of epoxy?

  • pesca CON chuchin says:

    thanks for the video my question how many hours are left to dry when the epoxi is applied another question is danger I mean I can leave it dry inside my house and if there is no problem with the children thank you

  • 1234tric says:

    To Mudbug: I do all the mixing like you say. None the less, my final finish is tacky, and takes hours to dry. How can I get a hard fast finish? After I let dry. I find my finish tacky. Can I apply some hardener, and how much, and get a tack free dried guide?

  • momom659 says:

    How to clean the brush after use please ?

  • Ihatefracking says:

    I just did a 9 foot fly rod… you don need to mix that much. 3cc each would have been plenty. could have done 3 more rods with what I wasted.

  • Zachary Hunholz says:

    why is the pro paste from the small containers a different texture than the ones already in the syringe?

  • DillonBashrum says:

    my finish was very cloudy and rubbery. any tips?

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