DIY | How to strip rust and paint on the cheap

DIY | How to strip rust and paint on the cheap

– Hello, this is Davin
Reckow with Hagerty. And today I’m gonna go
through a real quick, simple, and cheap way
to strip all the rust and paint off of this crank pulley. So I got a little tip from a
friend of mine that’s a farmer. When he cleans his milk
machine, he uses this stuff called Milkstone and he
said it works very good to clean rust and stuff
off of his equipment. Now granted, milk machines
are mainly stainless but the point in the
matter is he said this will strip the rust off of
this without a problem. So we’re gonna give it
a little test today. Okay, so for today’s example,
I’m gonna use an ultrasonic cleaner but I’m only gonna
use the heating cycle. Now you can use anything,
you can actually just take this and soak it in a dish
pan and it’ll just take a little bit longer and you
can also use even a Crock Pot as long as that temperature stays below the recommendation on the can. Now given that this has
muriatic acid in it, this is a perfect time to
actually use some rubber gloves. So Milkstone is readily
available at virtually every Tractor Supply, Farm and
Fleet, any of your farm stores, also like a feed store and
it’s relatively inexpensive. This gallon jug cost roughly $13. Okay, so I have this ultrasonic
cleaner set at 60 degrees C, which is roughly 140 degrees Fahrenheit. As you can see I’ve been
using this quite a bit. Now, lift this up, carefully
set it in the basket not to splash, lower it in and you can see it’s already percolating
that muriatic acid is attacking the surface of course. And we’re gonna cover
it up, keep the heat in and we’re gonna come back in probably, I don’t know, half hour to an hour and see what the parts
look like at that point. Definitely took off some grease. And you can see all the paint
is basically really loose. Alright, so I’m gonna take
this over to the sink, rinse off the Milkstone
and let’s see what we got. Alright, so I rinsed this
off with some hot water and you can see after an hour to soaking it did a really nice job
of stripping that down. It has a little bit of,
I’m gonna call it a film of some black more or
less powder so before you paint it, you’d wanna
run some Scotch Brite over it and clean it up real nice. If it’s crustier here or
there, you might wanna take and scrape it with a screwdriver
and get the big chunks off. We didn’t from a demonstration stand point but or even hit it with a
wire brush here or there. Now, I’ve also tested this
with a harmonic balancer. I soaked it for about a
half hour and I was just was curious to see what it
would do with the rubber in a harmonic balancer and at this point in that stage of investigation it seemed to be impervious to the rubber. So, try it on some parts,
see what your results are. Leave some comments for us
down in the section below and we’d love to see what your results are relative to the results that we got.


  • Dũng Máy says:


  • paulo mootores says:

    muito bom , um fã brasileiro

  • Ozzstar says:

    Vinegar and water. Safer and cheaper.

  • slhines7 says:

    My new favorite chemical and/or tool to tackle rust.

  • An Ch says:

    Good job. In russia we take electroliz and clean detail

  • Kenneth says:

    Great tip. Seems like all the rust dissolving solutions currently on the market cost over 20 dollars or more. So if this is about 13 dollars it might be worth switching!

  • Vanilla Gorilla says:

    What model is that ultrasonic cleaner? Looks better than most of the readily available ones for reloading.

  • AustrianAnarchy says:

    How about phosphoric acid (Edit: See
    Keith Schrack
    reply. The stuff Davin is using is phosphoric acid.), that is readily available in 85% concentration (can dilute to 30% and works fine) and is pretty cheap too? None of the HCL issues, the stuff is a food additive anyway. Bonus! It is the stuff that auto manufacturers dip car bodies in to provide the phosphoric barrier that prevents rust from bubbling up around paint/primer scratches and chips.

  • Jeff Moore says:

    seems to work pretty good that acid will will attack anything and break it lose

  • Sub251202ast says:

    Hello, thanks for your videos, it give some motivation.. Tell me please what you douing with piston rods during renovation for engine ( I saw some special machine for rod)

  • Max Kruger says:


  • 손정민 says:

    Awesome thanks

  • Charlie Xiao says:

    That beautiful black falcon rear tail light from multiple facilities is still on my mind.

  • Danny Wilsher says:

    Muratic acid is what I have used forever. Faster than what you used and cheaper. Get it at big box stores, it's used for swimming pools.

  • EA. jam says:


  • Максим Михаленко says:

    nice channel=))

  • Bottomlands says:

    Muriatic acid is like $4 at the big box stores. It's used to clean masonry and concrete.

  • N8TRON says:

    Great tip! I had no idea about using milk stone. Thanks

  • Pgcmoore says:

    seems to work, wonder if it would accelerate removal in an electrolytic bath for the really badly rusted up stuff?

  • William Wallace says:

    works pretty good. thanks for the tip

  • Martin Berzerker says:

    Hi. I have never heard about a product called milkstone. is there any equivalent chemical products i can find from my local stores ? btw i live in northern europe if that matters..

  • Bill Brockmann says:

    Gunsmiths will boil rusted parts to convert the ferrous oxide (rust) to ferric oxide (black oxide of iron). That black film is probably ferric oxide, which won't rust. Hit it with a wire brush and/or some scotchbrite and you're good to go.

  • Joe DeCesere says:

    I use Evaporust, non-toxic and it can be used again and again. When it is used up, I put it on my lawn. It has iron in it turn grass greener.😎

  • D Giorgi says:

    Dude, thanks for the tip and it was great to see you using protective gloves when handling this Caustic Solution… a pair of Safety Glasses would have also been nice to show to your viewers because one slip and a drop hits your eyes and brother you are going to have a serious problem.

  • my4cars says:

    EvapoRust; Safe to handle, reusable, and doesn't require a machine only some time.

  • chbrules says:

    You could probably just use dilute muriatic acid all the same and save some money.

  • Russell Bailey says:

    Have used it diluted for the past 5 years to strip and clean motorcycle parts in the restoration process. I use in a large tote, be careful with pot metal it will disintegrate in no time at all.

  • Chris Rowland says:

    Nothing beats a blast cabinet…

  • Kory Gatley says:

    Can you keep this stuff in a parts cleaner?

  • John Gomes says:

    I use white vinegar

  • Aaron Hayden says:

    On the cheap my ass you have to buy a $300 dollar parts washer first

  • Matthew Watson says:

    That does a pretty good job but that Evaporust is pretty cool stuff and won't burn your eyes and airway breathing in the fumes. Thanks for the video!

  • Gary A says:

    Thx for a good video and gave you a thumbs up. I would like to mention a couple of things however- it’s not cool to rinse off acid into the sink and ultimately our water supply. Please find another way to rinse off. Secondly, not sure why your editor allowed the mispronunciation of “muriatic” acid and “percolator” by an English speaker?

  • chees wade says:

    i just did all the pump and pully bits on a couple of marine 327s ,just used a huge toat of vinager and them a spray washer ,,,,woosh done

  • Sean T says:

    I believe the muriatic acid will eat aluminum, so watch out for any aluminum parts.

  • ghalibabubaker88 Abubaker says:

    That really removed all the rust also incase u don't hav all those equipment u can use vinegar aswel although it has to stay overnight but it does the job… otherwise always Appreciate ur tips n good work sir😊

  • Douglas Rodriguez says:

    Excellent. Thanks

  • Aviator111167 says:

    still left rust paint and corrosion. are you kidding?

  • Arthur Porrata says:

    What about soda blasting, would that work better ?

  • SpatialDragon says:

    Safety glasses.

  • dielauwen says:

    Well you can use phosphoric acid also used in the dairy , Oven cleaner works well, washing soda and dc current , and sandblasting after degreasing. Cola works well, Vinegar works well and Pine oil is a great carb cleaner and degreaser. And don't forget a wire brush.

  • Слава Мерс says:

    Cool, thanks !

  • cee dee says:

    Citric Acid Powder is what I use available at most grocery stores and can be used over and over give it a try.

  • Bry 117 says:

    Hate cheapos. Haha that will show them

  • Domenic DeMenna says:

    How will this process work on sheet metal?

  • m woo says:

    Muriatic is just weak Hydrochloric Acid. Maybe give a rinse with baking soda dissolved in water at the end

  • M W S says:

    God my allergies are killing me. But as far as painting after you've remove the rust I would use
    POR-15 which is available from Eastwood automotive supply or at some major Auto Parts retailers. While I have used their paint that you apply directly onto rust it works great it almost acts as a powder coat. I just wish I could soak my rear quarter panel in milkstone, unfortunately that's not a very viable option.

  • Joe DeCesere says:

    John MacDonald, I always clean the oil/grease off parts before I use Evaporust, however, old parts that have oil/grease in crevices still can be put in Evaporust for derusting and the small amounts of oil /grease are neutralized by Evaporust. It is PH balanced.

  • Joseph Bloggs says:

    Molasses diluted 9 to 1 works well and is very cheap. Slow but effective. Add electrolosis and watch it go..

  • starsinmyeyes says:

    Not for aluminum. Muriatic acid will eat it up. The rxn is exothermic and makes some nasty fumes.

  • Ash qelon says:

    Lot easier to just sell the car.

  • Guillermo Nieri says:

    Excellent option! Thank you

  • IDI Ford Diesels says:

    The black power is just the oxidation from the chemical reactions of the acid and the rust.

  • ddcraun says:

    Two words….. safety glasses…..

  • Bingo Hall says:

    Try 9 parts water to 1 part feed molasses and keep the paint. Inexpensive and safe to handle, store and dispose of.etc.

  • Paul Straney says:

    I have discovered vinegar. You may have to wait a day or longer. The results are impressive – understatement. Way cheaper than anything containing hydrochloric or sulfuric
    acids, no heated bath, environmentally friendly. Molasses works as well but, the time is closer to 2 weeks. Both molasses and vinegar can be disposed of with no precautions. BTW, a gallon of vinegar from Walmart is only about 2 bucks. Of course you could splurge for more expensive Heinz product that supports John Kerry but, why would you!

  • FuLLeFFekT1 says:

    Oxalic acid (wood bleach) works amazingly, it can be bought in bulk for cheap too (great for coolant system flush!) also in Barkeeper’s Friend..(less concentrated) 😎🤙🏼

  • sinan gencal says:

    how many towels do you use for a month?

  • Daijyobanai says:

    larger parts can be put in a molasses and water mix, 1 part to 10 parts water. It takes time but is ultra cheap and is ideal for when you don't need it in a hurry. It also smells foul, which is nice if you don't like your neighbors!
    Otherwise, strong vinegar is good for getting it done fast, costs more though.

  • tangled Line says:

    The ultrasonic cleaner sounds expensive…but it isnt. Thanks

  • accobra62 says:

    Naval jelly.

  • John Hamelin says:

    Ty.i will try

  • iare19 says:

    We used coca-cola.

  • Rulez says:

    можно электролизом

  • Lauren Siemens says:

    I have a question…what do you do with the acid after its lost its usefulness. I have used oven cleaner but that was outside

  • MetaView7 says:

    That liquid is not Milkstone, it is the milkstone remover.

  • MetaView7 says:

    Coca Cola can do the same thing

  • 7ViewerLogic says:

    Use safety glasses.

  • Bob England says:

    Here in England we use Vinegar or Brown Sauce to bring metal back to its former glory, just submerge it overnight.

  • hbknhry says:

    Nice tip, Thanks.

  • Matthew Sheldon says:

    I’ve done some research on engine block cleaning and found some people use farm grade feed molasses if I’m saying it correctly. It doesn’t remove rust for what I’ve read but I’m dying to try it. The milk stone is definitely something I am wanting to try. I love your time lapse flathead ford rebuild video btw. I enjoy all the Hagerty videos!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

  • Никита Ша says:

    Все хорошо, но откуда у меня ультра звуковая ванна))))

  • affinityfunable says:

    Will it hurt my leather if i soak and heat my entire car in milkstone to remove any rust? The car would fit in our pool.
    Lol. JK.
    Neat video guy.

  • Christopher Redmon says:

    White vinegar works great for me but takes longer. It's a lot cheaper too.

  • Muskrat says:

    A few points to clarify the video.

    #1 The product is "Milk Stone REMOVER". Referring to is as milk stone is akin to calling nail polish remover "nail polish". Just to clarify.
    #2 At 00:59 the fella indicated that there is muriatic acid in the product. Per the MSDS, there is no muriatic acid in this Stearns product, not that it makes much difference.
    #3 The video fails to emphasize the major benefit of using a phosphoric acid product on rusty steel. The reason phosphoric acid is the best, is it "phosphates" steel It converts Iron Oxide (rust) into Ferric Phosphate (a black colored inert/non rusting compound). This is the black color you see on the surface. Very similar chemically to gun bluing.
    #4 removing the black ferric phosphate coating that is left is counterproductive if further corrosion protection is desired. If you blast or remove the converted iron phosphate, lightly brush on an additional coat of milkstone remover to again phosphate the part. That or paint it, or both…..

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