Color Sanding Paint & Buffing – How To DIY with Kevin Tetz on Kevin’s Korner from Eastwood

Color Sanding Paint & Buffing – How To DIY with Kevin Tetz on Kevin’s Korner from Eastwood


hey this is kevin’s korner and i’m kevin
Tetz host of the of the Paintucation instructional dvd series You know a successful paint body and
restoration project has nothing to do with magic it has everything to do with hard work and
work that you put in before during and after your project and that’s why
it’s nice to have a partner like the Eastwood Company that has all the tools
that you’re ever gonna need to do all of those things and what we’re gonna be talking about
today is what happens after the paint is dry more importantly, correcting some of the
defects that happened during the drying process all that stuff but falls into
the paint job in short, color sanding and buffing now this hood has been shot and cleared
quite a while ago it’s fully cured so it’s ready for buffing and there’s a
couple of pretty gnarly vestments like this one right here this is a typical dirt nib
that falls into the paint while it’s drying you can feel it when you run your finger over
it and quite frankly it looks really bad on this black paint job but you don’t
have to live with it and there’s easy ways to fix it however, there is a process that you need to go
through i’d just like doing your body work you want
to do your shaping first this is no different but basically we’re shaping it or playing
it or planing it from the top down and these guys are a really nice option to have in your tool arsenal these are run files or nib files they come in a couple of different
shapes and grits they’re fairly course this ones got a contoured bottom side and this is fine this is course they have different applications but
they’re all great tools to have in their own right the course file is perfect for planing
runs a fine tooth file is perfect for
something like the dirt nib we’re working on and one of the convex shapes on the bottom is
perfect for contoured shapes if you don’t want to take the corners now the course file moves a lot of
material very fast not necessarily what we need now with our tiny dirt nib the contoured guy, well we’re dealing
with a flat surface so we’re not going to use him either this is perfect for what we’re trying to do cool thing about it is there’s and arrow
here that’ll tell you which direction you need to plane and it goes against the grain of the teeth basically what you do center center up your dirt nib you can hear it you can hear it work and you can see what’s happening you can also
see the gnarly scratches on either side of the dirt nib but it’s leveling it, planing it off Right there I can’t even feel it but I can still see a bit of a ring around it i can’t even feel that so now we’re ready for the next step
which is a little bit of six hundred sandpaper and before I start sanding I’m going to clean this surface off with a bit of water it just gets any grit or any dust that’s fallen
into it while you’ve been working getting ground down into this pain got six hundred grit wet i’m not to use my fingertips i’m not can
use my fingers as an interface pat i’m using a soft lock wrapping my paper around that way i know that a flat surface recreating what i want to
be flat surface. Once I’m satisfied with the six
hundred grip and I know because i’m looking i know i don’t see any more divots I can move up to one thousand soft foot don’t create finger tips as a matter of
fact here’s what i’m talking about Not good. So we use our interface pad again. And I keep on going up in stages until i
reached twenty five hundred grit or three thousand grit and then I’m ready for
compound and the final buffing now this is just one small aspect of
surface repair on a finished paint job the painucation color sanding and buffing DVD goes into great detail on this and many more procedures so do yourself a favor, go to Eastwood.com pick up a set a nib files and some
other color sending and buffing supplies and get to work. You’ll be winning trophies at the car show in no time.

25 Comments

  • hddm3 says:

    one of the best.

  • Eastwood Company says:

    Links to BUY the products seen in this video are below the video.

  • 1011theguy says:

    what a joke those blocks suck i have one they tear the shit out of your finish

  • Sergio Gaspar says:

    Who cuts and buffs with 600!!! that little dirt nib could of been removed with 1200 then 1500 in half the steps.

  • Niklavs Roga says:

    600 is overkill , i wonder how long it too k to buff out the scraches if at all

  • Davo Carpenter says:

    It's all about selling a product you don't need. But, making you think you need it. Salesmen, LOL.

  • Carlan Bruns says:

    this guy's great! thanks!

  • ShadeTreeChef says:

    Hold on hold on hold on. What if your clear coat was completely removed before your nib went flush? Another way of asking is clear coat gone nib still there. What should be the next step? Just hit it up with a touch up of clear? Just sand down the clear on the whole panel and re-clear it? Kevin you are awesome love that you are Trucks now don't get me wrong. Stacey is great but he has a new show and you bring more detail.

  • Eastwood Company says:

    Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?  Check out this video from Eastwood to find out:  Funny & Romantic Dinner for Two – Are You An Eastwood Guy?

  • david rothove says:

    WHY is he leaning on that hood? WHY is he using it for a work bench? Drop light on the hood? Would of got me fired at the shop I started out sweepin' floors for.

  • CD Gomez says:

    you are a beast at what you do, you rock my man, big shout out from Miami

  • Chris Turner says:

    what grit are those nibbing blocks equivalent too

  • Robert #bass4u says:

    do I have to sand it the base coat before spraying clear coats

  • cashmoneyspeed says:

    I have the set of all 3 files. Not too sure if I'm going to have good results with a fully cured epoxy with no clear coat. I have dirt here and there from the final coat an 1 small run. Seems like i should just use the buffer instead of these.

  • Dan Kreeger says:

    kevin come paint my camaro. you are a legend

  • Brulserz says:

    Hello, i have a question. Can i use a squeegee instead of a soft block or ? The squeegee is kinda flexible.. Thank you.

  • Jason Wombwell says:

    with the 3 steps, when do u sand out orange peel? Thank You

  • badtbss ls2 says:

    I'm painting a silver metallic n looks like I have a run on base coat I already cleared it can I take out the run or do I have to repaint

  • SafetyConeGarage says:

    I like this guy! He makes me want to paint all my family members and buff them

  • adrean harrigan says:

    Why not just use 2000 to nib then finish off with 3000 and then 5000 then buff?

  • Robert Arco says:

    Hey Eastwood, I need your help. I used Eastwoods Rat Rod black to refinish a 1966 Mustang Coupe dash (awesome stuff). I have a few tiny pieces of trash. Can I treat this like regular single stage/cut and polish or is that not possible on rat rod black ? Thanks

  • Julio Vega says:

    Those Eastwood nib files are dope… do you have the part # for them??? I work at a good body shop and that’s kinda how we polish everything we paint… I’ll hit it with a dry carbo da…. so I can see the dirt… then I’ll block the nibs with the 1000 with a little block… I’ll go over the 1000 with the 2000 with that mid block… then 3000 everything at least 5 passes the trizack… then buff with the wool pad… then with the white foam pad… then the black pad with grey 3m foam polish… then the blue pad with blue polish at the buffer all the way down… then clean up all residu and hand glaze …. then detail the entire vehicle…. no swirl marks guaranteed!!!

  • Robert Brunston says:

    Thank you.

  • Michael Collins says:

    I put tape all way around the nib so i dont dig in adjacent good paint like he just did 😉 the tape allows file to slide over and just the bib is sticking up. Come on man!!!

  • Paint Wizard says:

    https://youtu.be/FlTWa18NUTs heres another one thats really good

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *